To remove dark water stains from wood, you need to sand it out with sandpaper. You can brush the stain with a toothbrush and paste, lighten it with peroxide or bleach, or use a hardwood cleaner. Or you could stain the area with the same color.

Dark water stains in wood don’t need to be permanent, as there are several solutions to this problem. Keep reading to learn how to use inexpensive methods to restore your wood to its original beauty!

Sand the Area With #100-Grit Sandpaper

You need to get past the finish to get to the set-in stain. While some sources mention that you can iron out a water stain, it is usually a white stain that is new and not set like a dark stain. So you need to work it out with a little sandpaper.

Since the water stain is dark, it has set in the wood, compared with light stains. Therefore, you need to remove the finish with #100-grit sandpaper around the stain first. Going with the grain, rather than against, sand off the finish, or you will find strange patterns in your wood. Apply even pressure while sanding to keep the pattern even.

Once the finish is removed, take a #150-grit sandpaper and work with the grain to remove the final edges of the finish before attacking the water stain. Continue working the sandpaper over the stain until it is gone. Depending on how far the stain goes down into the wood, you may need to sand down a good distance.

When that is complete, use a vacuum or clean damp rag to clean up the dust or debris.

Stain the Area With the Same Color as the Rest of the Wood

Before applying a new finish to the newly sanded area, make sure that the entire water stain is gone and that the wood has not been unduly damaged by over-sanding.

After removing the water stain with the sandpaper, apply it using a clean rag or a brush. Again, go with the grain to avoid any strange patterns on your wood floor or furniture.

Another option to remove the stain without needing sandpaper is to get a finishing stain darker than the water stain and refinish the entire piece or floor. You will need lightly sand the finish to remove it, but you can avoid sanding completely down.

However, this method is not recommended because the stain will set in deeper and can ruin your wood.

Use Hydrogen Peroxide or a Bleach Solution to Lighten the Stain

If you don’t want to sand and re-stain the dark water stain out of your wood, then hydrogen peroxide or bleach might work.

Before you break out Hydrogen Peroxide or a bleach solution, there are a few things you need to know about using either substance on wood floors:

• Do not mix the two bleaches.
• Do not pour either one directly on the wood.
• Do not leave it on longer than necessary to remove the water stain.

Make a 50:50 solution of bleach and water, or hydrogen peroxide and water. Soak a white rag in the solution, then wring lightly. Make sure it’s not dripping.

Lay the cloth over the stain and let sit for ten minutes. Lift and let the floor dry before another treatment. Continue this process until the stain is gone. Sand the spot lightly, then apply a new finish.

You could also use a vinegar/lemon juice solution. Because the vinegar and lemon juice are acidic, they can lighten the stain just as well as hydrogen peroxide or bleach, but without the strong smell.

Mix equal portions of vinegar and lemon juice. Soak a clean rag and lightly wring it out. Then, lay the rag on the water stain and let work for at least 10 minutes. Remove the rag and check out the stain. If it is still there, repeat the process. If it’s gone, proceed to dry the spot and refinish the area with a matching varnish.

One note of caution: Vinegar can dull your wood over time, so you may want to use this sparingly or not very often.

Brush the Stain With a Toothbrush and Toothpaste

If the stain is set in, you might try toothpaste and a toothbrush. You can begin brushing out the stain immediately if it’s unfinished wood. If it’s finished, lightly sand off the finish and then brush the stain out.

Use white toothpaste, not a gel paste, as it has better cleaning power than gel paste. Because toothpaste is made to remove stains on your teeth, it is perfect for removing the stain off your wood surface.

Put the paste on the brush like you would for brushing your teeth. Gently brush the spot and let sit. If the stain is deeper than the finish, keep brushing until you get to the stain. If the stain is tougher than you realized to get rid of, then mix a little baking soda with the toothpaste and try again.

When the stain is removed, wipe gently with a damp cloth and let dry. Refinish the wood with a matching stain.

Try Using a Hardwood Cleaner on the Stain

You can use specialty cleaners on your wood floor or furniture to remove the dark water stain. While there are specialized cleaners for daily cleaning of wood floors, these are not appropriate for removing dark, ugly water stains. You need to find cleaners such as a commercial wood bleach that will lift the stain right out of the wood once you remove the finish.

These products are made for cleaning hardwood floors but can be used on wood furniture as well. Use according to directions.

Apply Mayonnaise and Let Sit For an Hour

Vinegar is often used for cleaning stains, dirt, rust, and other things off surfaces. Mayonnaise is excellent for most wood surfaces, as it has oil and egg yolks (fat) to keep the wood moist.

As always, lightly remove the finish with soft sandpaper. Apply a modest amount of mayo on the stain and let work for an hour. Keep it moist by either applying more mayo or placing a cloth on top of the mayo. When the hour is up, wipe clean with a damp cloth, and reapply the finish. If that doesn’t work, then try one of the other methods listed in this article.

A Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Might Work

Mr. Clean Magic erasers are great for several applications. While the magic erasers work on other items, wood stains might not work so well. Still, it doesn’t hurt to try.

Since the finish is still over the stain, and it’s set in deeply, remove the finish before using the eraser on it.

Then get the eraser damp, and scrub the stain. If it doesn’t, take it out immediately, try spraying it with a solution of a 50:50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and water. Then try again.

If it is a stubborn stain, you may need to try a stronger method. Magic erasers don’t often work like they are advertised to work, so if it doesn’t work for you, don’t give up. 

Try Using Other Household Ingredients to Get Rid of the Stain

Other methods are proven to be effective at removing dark water stains from wood. Before applying these methods, you may want to lightly sand off the finish to reach the spot a lot better. If you don’t have sandpaper to remove the finish, try using steel wool with lemon oil.

When the finish around the stain is removed, then the following household products should help to remove the deep, set-in water stain.

Baking Soda

Mix one tablespoon baking soda with one teaspoon water to make a paste. Apply the paste to the dark water stain and let rest for a few minutes. If the stain is resilient, apply more paste and let sit longer. When the stain is gone, then wipe clean with a damp cloth and let dry. If the finish is lightened or gone, reapply the finish.

Salt and Oil

Make a paste of olive oil and salt, and apply to the stain. For tough stains, rub it in a little bit before letting it sit for 15-20 minutes. Wipe clean.

White Vinegar and Olive Oil

Much like the mayonnaise method, a vinegar and oil mixture should lift the stain without drying out the wood. Mix equal portions of oil and vinegar as best as you can, and put some directly on the stain. Rub it in, then place a cloth soaked in the mixture over the stain. Remove the soaked cloth, and using a dry cloth, wipe it until it shines.

Dawn Dish Soap

If your wood is unfinished, and there is a dark water stain in it, you might be able to use Dawn dish soap. Mix a drop of dish soap with water and apply to a clean cloth. Gently rub the stain until it comes out. Rinse the cloth, then wipe the area once more. Dry quickly before the wood warps or rots.

One thing to remember about using dish soap: Cleaning wood with water and soap does more damage to wood if used frequently for cleaning. You want to use sparingly not to warp or rot the wood. For daily cleaning, use a cleaner that is formulated for wood floors or furniture.

Butter and Ashes

While this next tip may sound strange, using a paste of equal portions of butter and cigarette ashes can make the dark water stain disappear. Using a clean cloth, rub a bit of the paste on the stain until it disappears. Wipe clean.

Protect Your Wood Surface From Future Stains

Once you remove the stain, you need to protect your wood surface from future watermarks.

If you’re working on a wood floor, and there are significant water stains that you removed, you may want to remove all of the finish before proceeding.

After you remove all the finish, use the following tips to restore and protect your floor:

• Rub the floor with natural linseed or Tung oil to give it a natural shine while protecting it against future stains.
• Use varnish, lacquer, or polyurethane to seal the wood and keep it waterproof.
• Find and use a stain-sealant combo that can stand up to even high-traffic areas where water is more likely to gather.
• Seal your floor with a high-grade wood wax, once you’ve finished applying the stain, which will add an extra layer of protection against future water stains.

If you’re working with wood furniture, you can try the same products against water stains as you would with a wood floor. You could also seek out products specifically made for wood furniture, like tables, chairs, and nightstands.

Products like Pledge for normal dusting also protects against water stains, and it adds a protective wax-like substance that keeps your furniture shiny.

Related: Wood Stain vs. Varnish vs. Paint

Conclusion

Dark water stains in wood can be tricky to remove if you’re not careful. But a little bit of elbow grease and creativity can restore your wood surfaces to their previous glory.

Another tip that you can try is to use steel wool dipped in a bit of lemon juice or vinegar, and sand the stain as you would with sandpaper. Using a circular motion, gently buff the wood until the stain comes out. Then remove the debris with a clean, dry cloth, and refinish with a matching wood stain.

Whatever you do, don’t use a wet mop on your wood floors, or clean wood furniture with anything wet, as it could permanently damage your surface.

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Laminate flooring is not waterproof because it is made up of layers of recycled hardwood that can soak up and fall apart if saturated with water. It is, however, water-resistant and won’t suffer any damage from topical and surface spills if cleaned and wiped dry quickly.

The rest of this article will discuss in detail why laminate flooring is not waterproof, what to expect when laminate flooring becomes wet and how to deal with it, and how you can improve the water-resistance of your laminate floor.

Why Laminate Flooring Is Not Waterproof

It’s not hard to figure out why laminate flooring is not waterproof. The problem with laminate flooring is that it is made of recycled hardwood or wood fibers that don’t hold well against water. Even some products marketed as “waterproof” by manufacturers are disputable since the materials and entire manufacturing process makes it almost unrealistic.

Another reason why laminate flooring is not waterproof is the click-and-lock system used in its installation. While it is easier than the glue-down method, the seams are not perfectly locked. This provides gaps in the surface layer through which water can sip and damage the board’s core.

A better way to understand why laminate flooring isn’t waterproof is to look at how it is designed. Laminate flooring is made up of four layers. The bottom-most layer or the backing layer acts as a moisture barrier between the board and the floor. There is another layer on top of the backing layer, known as the base or core layer.

The base layer is made of high-density fiberboard and forms the main structure. There are two other layers above the fiberboard core; the design layer gives the flooring its color and pattern, and the wear layer protects the board against fading, scratches, and wear.

Although the wear layer also serves as a moisture barrier, if enough water gets into it and reaches the base layer, it can swell up and start to shift or buckle depending on the type of material used. If it is allowed to absorb more water, the layers will fall apart, ultimately destroying the whole floor.

What Happens When Laminate Flooring Becomes Wet?

When some manufacturers say “waterproof,” what they actually mean is “water-resistant.” These two concepts are completely different and are sometimes misunderstood. Water-resistant simply means that your flooring can prevent water penetration to some extent, but not completely. Waterproof, on the other hand, means that the material is completely and permanently impervious to water.

A laminate floor can withstand water spills, such as water dripping off your body when you get out of the shower, rainwater from your shoes, or routine spills from a glass of water. If these surface spills are wiped dry immediately, no harm would be done to your floor.

However, if you allow laminate flooring to absorb enough water, the layers will become soaked, and the fiberboard core will swell up, resulting in the surface layer’s delamination. It’s similar to when a table made of particleboard gets wet. The boards will bubble up, bend, and eventually crack.

Is There Waterproof Laminate Flooring?

By improving their technology and adding new materials into the fiberboard, manufacturers are now creating laminate flooring that they claim to be waterproof. However, these products may not be as exactly as marketed, and their claims are not a guarantee that the flooring won’t fall apart if attacked by excess moisture.

The difference between the standard laminate plank and the specially constructed board will only be its increased resistance to water, rather than being completely impervious as sheet vinyl or ceramic tile is. For a flooring material to be truly waterproof, it must be manufactured so that the fiberboard core is eliminated.

A few companies offer laminate flooring made out of synthetic materials such as PVC plastic, but they are very limited and hard to find. Whatever brand of laminate flooring you’re buying, it should be water-resistant to some degree, but don’t expect it to be completely waterproof except it’s made of a different material.

What to Do if Your Laminate Floor Gets Wet

If the water on your floor is topical, you can still save it if you quickly clean it up and dry the boards. If water seeps into the open seams, use a wet-dry vacuum that can extract the water. Not cleaning the water and drying the boards will allow water to get under your flooring. When this happens, you must remove the water immediately or risk irreversible damage.

Because laminate fiberboard is dense, it can take weeks to dry. To speed up the drying process, use a high-volume fan or dehumidifier. This method can reduce the drying time to 12 to 36 hours.

You should also remove all the floorboards and lay them flat instead of drying in place. Don’t expose them to high temperatures as it can cause them to warp or shrink. Also, your laminate flooring may not retain its original dimensions after completely drying.

If heavy water is left long enough under your flooring, it can become damaged. Unfortunately, you’ll have to replace your laminate if you find signs of water damage on it. Look for swollen plank edges, buckling at the sides, cupping or peaking at the sides or center, and cracking of the board’s surface. Any of these signs means you need a replacement.

You should also identify the source of the leak and deal with it immediately. Besides swelling and bending, mold can also form on saturated laminate flooring. If you don’t dry out your laminate 48 hours after being soaked, molds can begin to develop on it.

The time it takes for some types of mold to form vary depending on the conditions of the house and the cause of the flooding. If the flooding is caused by sewage or groundwater flooding, it will develop mold faster and the longer you leave it, the lower your chances of saving your flooring. Be sure to remove moisture from the baseboards, wall cavities, and carpet padding.

Can You Make Laminate Flooring Waterproof?

You can increase your laminate’s resistance to water and make it more durable. One of the ways to waterproof laminate or increase its resistance is to apply silicone sealant to the cracks and edges where water can seep into and cause damage.

Another way to protect your laminate flooring is to apply a polyurethane coat over the entire floor. This helps to protect your floorboards and reduce the chances of water damage. To make your flooring even more resistant to water penetration, apply two or more layers of coating.

Conclusion

If you live in a high-moisture environment and looking for waterproof flooring, laminate flooring may not be your best option. Standard laminate flooring can last for up to 25 years if properly maintained, but it is not completely waterproof because of the way it is manufactured.

Some manufacturers design special laminate by adding new materials and referring to them as waterproof. However, this only improves its resistance to water and does not make it completely waterproof. If you’re looking for genuine waterproof flooring, luxury vinyl, ceramic or porcelain tile, and sheet vinyl are your best options.

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But even though it might look stunning, unless you take good care of it, the wood in your bathroom can warp or even rot. So, how can you waterproof wood so that it stays beautiful for a long time? Well, let’s find out.

Waterproof Your Wooden Furniture with Oils

Using oil to waterproof wooden furniture is extremely popular because it’s cheap and somewhat easy to do. Now, there are a couple of different oils you could use to get the job done, but I recommend using tung oil.

Tung Oil

No matter what kind of wood you have in your bathroom, tung oil will do the trick. In fact, you can also use tung oil to finish metal, concrete, and brick surfaces. A gallon of tung oil can cover around 400 square feet of wood, but keep in mind that you need to apply at least four coats.

Unlike some of the other coats we’ll be talking about, tung oil won’t just form a layer over the varnish. It will get absorbed into the wood, creating a long-lasting, waterproof barrier. But even though it makes the seal more durable, tung oil also has a longer drying time.

Depending on the type of wood you are coating, tung oil can cure for 7 to 14 days. Also, that time will vary based on how many layers you’ve done.

But if you can’t wait that long, you can put a thinning agent into the oil and significantly cut the drying time. The one downside to this method is that you can only do it for the first coat. If you do it more than once, the oil won’t fully penetrate the wood.

Applying Tung Oil

Before you can go in with tung oil, you need to prep your wood. First, start by cleaning the surface you want to cover, making sure there’s no dirt, debris, or dust on it. Also, if you’re repurposing and reusing wood, it might already have a protective coat, which you have to sand down.

I recommend using a fine-grit paper, so you don’t accidentally damage the wood underneath. Once you’ve sanded everything, clean the surface one more time before you get to work.

You can also thin your oil using a solvent or mineral spirits. By thinning the tung oil, it will penetrate the surface better and dry faster. But I don’t recommend thinning it if you’re working with unfinished or weathered wood.

Linseed Oil

Linseed oil is a somewhat inferior choice compared to tung oil because it has a longer curing time. But if you’re in a pinch and can’t buy tung oil, boiled linseed will do the trick. It has the same preparation process and you can use a thinning agent to shorten the drying time.

If you do decide to go with linseed oil, you’ll be happy to know that it is totally water-resistant and gives a nice, glossy finish. You can also get it in different colors and finishes at most home improvement stores.

Waterproofing Wood with Polyester Resin and Acetone

If you want to waterproof your wood with polyester resin, you’ll get to choose between a laminating and finishing one. You should use the laminating resin if you want to paint over the seal.

But in case you want to keep that warm look of the wood intact, I recommend using a finishing resin. It is basically the same thing as the laminating one, only it has wax in it so it can fully harden.

Personally, I prefer using a polyester resin instead of oil, simply because it has a much shorter drying time. What’s more, you can also use it to refurbish rotten and damaged wood, as well as waterproof fiberglass.

Applying a Polyester Resin and Acetone

Again, before you can go in with your sealant, you need to prep your surface. If you’re working with weathered wood, use fine-grit sandpaper to get rid of any imperfections. Clean the surface well before you start applying the coats.

You have to mix the resin and acetone together to create your finish. You can pour some resin in a bucket and slowly start adding the acetone in until you get a consistency that’s a bit thicker than water.

Keep in mind that you’ll need to make a new mixture for each coat, so don’t go overboard the first time. Also, when you’re making new batches, put less acetone in to avoid diluting the mixture too much.

If you’re coating a smaller wooden surface, like a vanity, I recommend using a soft-bristled paintbrush. But if you’re working on your floors, you can use a paint roller for easier application. Just make sure you’re cleaning the brush and roller with acetone before you go in to put another coat.

For the best results, I recommend finishing your wood at least five times, making sure you wait for 20–30 minutes between each coat. In your final mixture, you can add a couple of drops of liquid wax for a high-shine effect. You should leave the wood to cure for four to six hours before you can start using it.

Waterproofing Bathroom Furniture with Sealants

Sealants are a tried-and-true method of waterproofing your wood that won’t break the bank. There are three types you can choose from:

• Varnish
• Lacquer
• Polyurethane sealant

You can either brush or spray them onto the wood and they usually have pretty short drying times. But I would recommend using a sealant only if you can work in a humidity-controlled environment.

Also, never shake or stir any of these sealants because doing so can create air bubbles. The bubbles will stay on the surface of the wood even after the sealant has dried.

Varnish

The varnish is basically a mixture of resin, solvent, and drying oil that will give your wood a nice, thick finish. It won’t turn yellow over time and it will make your wood more durable. For your bathroom, I recommend using a spar varnish, just because it creates a good water barrier.

You can also use a varnish spray for the furniture in your bathroom, like cabinets and vanities. It’s easy to use and only takes about 15 minutes to dry.

Lacquer

Lacquer is a mixture of dissolved resin in an alcohol solution. You can get it in a wide variety of finishes and thin it out if you want it to dry faster. But since it can develop a yellow tinge, I recommend using lacquer only on darker, deep-toned wood.

One thing to keep in mind is that lacquer can emit some really strong and potentially toxic fumes. If you can, either use it outside and then bring the furniture in or at least make sure you’re working in a well-ventilated room.

Polyurethane Sealant

Last up is a polyurethane sealant that can give your wood a gorgeous glossy finish or even a soft and gentle sheen. It is a mixture of acrylic and polyurethane resins, as well as different solvents.

It’s easy to use and clean up, and since it won’t turn yellow over time, you can use it on light-toned wood. Even though oil-based polyurethane sealant is a bit trickier to clean compared to water-based one, it is much more durable and long-lasting.

Preparing the Wood

No matter which product you end up using in the end, you first need to prep your wood. First, as I mentioned, you need to sand down your wood starting with 180-grit sandpaper. During this step, it’s really important that you remove any imperfections, seals, or paint that’s on your wood.

Then, to ensure a smooth finish, use a 220-grit paper. When you’re happy with how the wood’s looking, vacuum and clean your area, making sure there’s no debris or dust around. Also, I recommend cleaning your wood with a damp towel or cloth and waiting for it to dry before you start coating. 

If you decided to go with oils, you can work them into the wood using your hands or a lint-free cloth. Rub the oil into the wood, making sure there aren’t any puddles left. After 30 minutes, you can go over the surface with a clean, dry cloth. For best results, repeat this step a few times.

On the other hand, if you’re using a sealant or polyester resin, you need to work with a brush. You can put certain sealants in a spray bottle for easier application. But check the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines first, because it doesn’t work for every product.

Final Thoughts on Waterproofing Wood for Bathrooms

Waterproofing furniture and floors for your bathroom can be a pretty challenging but rewarding task. How much time and money you spend on this project will all come down to what you want to use.

Even though oils are pretty cheap, I wouldn’t recommend using them for your floors because they have such long drying times. But if you need to cover a big surface and do it fast, going for a sealant might be your best choice.

No matter what you end up using, it’s all about taking your time and coating in thin and even layers. Also, never paint another coat while the previous one is still drying. Most importantly, work in well-ventilated rooms and wear proper clothes and safety gear.

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