Read on to learn everything you need to know about tiling over tiles and choosing the right adhesive for the job.

The Faster the Adhesive Cures, the Better

Curing time plays a major role when tiling over existing tiles. Smooth, non-porous tiles can make it hard for newly placed tiles to stay in position while the adhesive dries, so a quick-drying formula is especially important. Slow-curing adhesive can allow tiles to shift, slide, or even detach before setting.

If your adhesive takes more than 24–48 hours to dry, it’s worth choosing a faster option. Faster curing means you won’t have to avoid the room for long on floor projects, and it reduces the risk of wall tiles slipping or falling.

The surface you’re covering also matters. If the existing tiles are coarse, you may be able to get away with a slower cure. But on sleek, glossy tiles, a fast-curing adhesive is essential to keep everything firmly in place.

Premixed Adhesive Works Better Than Powder Adhesive

For tiling over existing tiles, premixed adhesive is usually the better choice. It’s naturally thicker, which is important when you’re bonding to a smooth, non-porous surface. Powdered adhesive, on the other hand, can easily end up too thin or runny, weakening the bond between the two tile layers.

While powdered adhesive gives you more control over consistency, that flexibility isn’t particularly helpful in this situation — you need a reliably thick mix for the best results. Premixed adhesive can be a bit harder to work with since you can’t adjust it, but it delivers a more dependable bond on slick surfaces.

Another drawback of powdered adhesive is the potential for inconsistency. Mixing multiple batches can lead to slight variations in thickness, which can affect drying time and tile stability. Unless you’re very experienced at mixing adhesives and can maintain a uniform consistency, premixed adhesive is the safer and more effective option.

Go For Adhesives That Work Well With Smooth Surfaces

For the best results, choose an adhesive specifically designed to bond to smooth, non-porous surfaces like tiles.

Many tile adhesives are rated for several materials, but coarse surfaces such as concrete, cement, or wallboard are far easier for adhesives to grip. Slick tile surfaces require an adhesive formulated to adhere firmly despite the lack of texture.

Choose a Strong, High-Bond Adhesive

When tiling over existing tiles, strength matters more than it does on standard surfaces. Smooth tiles don’t give the adhesive much texture to grip, so you need a high-bond formula that can “bite” into the old surface and hold the new tile in place long-term.

A strong adhesive also reduces the chances of tiles shifting, sagging, or detaching later — especially in bathrooms or high-traffic areas.

For a tile-over-tile project, look for a “latex-modified” or “polymer-modified” adhesive designed for non-porous surfaces. These adhesives bond more aggressively and stay strong long-term. If you’re working on floors, especially ones that might flex or have heating systems, choosing a flexible adhesive provides even better durability.

One reliable option is Roberts 5900-1 Ceramic Tile Adhesive. It spreads easily, cures quickly, and has a naturally thicker consistency that helps keep tiles from sliding out of place while they set.

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There Are Different Adhesives for Outdoor and Indoor Use

Another key factor when choosing an adhesive is whether your project is indoors or outdoors. Outdoor tiling requires an adhesive specifically rated for exterior conditions, since temperature swings, moisture, and weather exposure can affect how well the adhesive performs.

Using an outdoor-approved adhesive helps prevent issues like mold or moisture buildup if water seeps between the tiles. Indoor adhesives typically don’t face these stresses unless the space is frequently exposed to moisture or strong drafts, so choosing the right formula for your environment is essential for long-term durability.

It’s Important to Determine How Much Adhesive You Want Beforehand

Another important part of choosing an adhesive is knowing how much you’ll need before you begin. Having the right amount on hand prevents you from running out mid-project and having to stop to order more.

The amount required depends on several factors. Wall tiles typically need less adhesive than floor tiles because they’re usually smaller and cover a smaller area — unless you’re tiling an entire bathroom, of course. Floor tiles generally require more adhesive, and as a rough estimate, you can expect about 45 square feet of coverage per gallon.

Actual coverage will vary based on:

• The thickness of the adhesive layer
• The type and size of the tiles
• The specific adhesive you’re using

Wall tiles often provide greater coverage per gallon since they don’t need as heavy a layer.

To determine how much adhesive you need, measure the area you plan to tile and apply the coverage ratio above. It’s always smart to round up so you won’t risk running short before the project is finished.

Things to Consider Before Tiling Over Tiles

Now that you know what to look for in an adhesive, there are a few important factors to consider before tiling over your existing tiles:

• The current tiles must be flat to ensure the new layer sits level and stable.
• Check for gaps where moisture or mold could develop.
• Remember that adding a second layer of tile increases floor height or reduces wall clearance.
• The adhesive must be able to bond tile to tile effectively.
• Clean the old tiles thoroughly to maximize adhesion.
• Make sure none of the existing tiles are loose.

Keep in mind that raising the height of the floor can create tripping hazards or interfere with doors, thresholds, or fixtures. This isn’t usually an issue for walls, but floors require more attention.

Ultimately, the success of a tile-over-tile project comes down to the condition of the existing surface. Uneven, damaged, or loose tiles can compromise the stability of the new layer. If the foundation isn’t sound, the new tiles may not adhere properly or could fail over time. Be sure the surface is solid before you begin.

Final Thoughts

Overall, you can successfully install new tiles over existing ones as long as you use the right adhesive and take your time. However, it’s not always the best option — especially if the tiles underneath are damaged or in poor condition.

Tiling over uneven, loose, or heavily worn tiles can compromise the stability of the new layer and increase the chances of tiles loosening or failing later on. In situations like that, it’s better to remove the old tiles first. It may take more work upfront, but it prevents you from having to tear out both layers down the road.

See also: Best Adhesives for Fixing Loose Floor Tiles

The post Choosing Adhesive for Tiling Over Tiles: What to Look For appeared first on HomelyVille.

Like most home features, it depends on your space, lifestyle, and priorities. So let’s break down the pros and cons to help you decide whether a walk-in closet belongs on your must-have or maybe-later list.

The Pros of a Walk-In Closet

Walk-in closets have become one of the most desired features in modern homes — and for good reason. Beyond just extra storage, they offer a unique blend of function, luxury, and personal style.

Here are some of the biggest benefits that make walk-in closets more than just a design trend.

1. Ample Storage Space

The most obvious benefit of a walk-in closet is the sheer amount of space it provides. You’re not limited to a single hanging rod and a top shelf — you can spread things out, organize by category, and make room for bulkier items like coats, luggage, or off-season clothing.

With thoughtful layout design, you can create dedicated zones for everything: handbags, shoes, suits, scarves, even workout gear or hobby items. Instead of stuffing things into random corners, everything has room to breathe.

Bonus: You’ll see your entire wardrobe at a glance, which helps curb overbuying, reduces decision fatigue, and prevents that “I forgot I owned this” moment.

2. Better Organization

Walk-in closets are a dream for anyone who loves a good system. Because of the added square footage, you can plan your space based on how you actually get dressed.

Want a shelf just for jeans? A row of drawers for jewelry? A full-length mirror and vanity combo? Walk-ins make it possible to customize your layout down to the smallest detail.

Zoning your space, such as separating workwear from casual wear or creating a capsule wardrobe area, also makes daily routines more efficient. Plus, organizing is just easier when you’re not working in tight quarters.

Quick tip: Use drawer dividers, velvet-lined trays, and labeled bins to keep small items neat and visible.

3. Privacy & Dressing Space

A walk-in closet is more than just a storage area. You can shut the door and take your time getting ready, try on outfits, or even do your hair and makeup if you have a built-in vanity or mirror.

It also keeps visual clutter out of your bedroom, which can make your main sleeping area feel calmer and more restful. Laundry piles, half-worn outfits, or cluttered drawers can all stay hidden behind the closet door.

Some walk-in closets even double as mini sanctuaries, with seating, lighting, and personal touches like artwork or mood boards.

Design tip: Add soft lighting, a cozy bench, or even a diffuser to make your walk-in feel like a retreat, not just a utility space.

4. Home Value Boost

In the real estate world, a walk-in closet, especially in the primary bedroom, is often seen as a luxury feature. It signals thoughtful design, increased storage capacity, and a more elevated living experience.

While it won’t guarantee a higher sale price on its own, it can increase buyer appeal, especially in mid to high-end homes. It also suggests that the home has been well-maintained and intentionally designed, which can lead to a faster sale.

Pro tip: A well-lit, well-staged walk-in closet can make a big impression during home tours.

5. Customization Potential

One of the most underrated perks of a walk-in closet is how customizable it is. Unlike reach-in closets, which are often limited to a rod and a shelf, walk-ins offer the space to get creative — and personal.

Want to display your handbags like a boutique? Install glass-front drawers for accessories? Add color-coded sections or a pull-out hamper system? Walk-ins make it all possible.

Inspiration tip: Use wallpaper, floating shelves, or curated décor to make your walk-in feel like a boutique that reflects your personal style.

Bonus flexibility: A walk-in closet isn’t just for clothes. When needed, you can easily convert it into a makeup room, home office, or other functional space.

6. Makes Daily Life Easier

A well-designed walk-in closet doesn’t just store your clothes — it streamlines your entire morning. When your outfits, accessories, and essentials are visible and organized, it reduces decision fatigue and helps you get out the door faster (and with more confidence).

It also becomes a go-to spot for prepping, reflecting, or even winding down after a long day.

Lifestyle tip: Keep your most-worn items at eye level for grab-and-go ease, and store “special occasion” pieces higher up or in garment bags.

The Cons of a Walk-In Closet

While walk-in closets definitely have their appeal, they’re not always the most practical choice for everyone. Before committing, it’s worth considering the potential drawbacks.

Here are a few reasons why that extra square footage might not be as practical (or necessary) as it seems.

1. Takes Up a Lot of Space

Walk-in closets feel luxurious, but they come at a cost — space. If you’re working with a small floor plan, that extra closet space may eat into your bedroom, bathroom, or even living area.

In some homes, dedicating that much real estate to clothing storage can feel impractical. Ask yourself: Would you rather have a bigger bedroom with more natural light and room to move — or a separate dressing space you might not fully utilize?

Especially in apartments or smaller homes, every square foot counts.

Space-savvy tip: In tight layouts, consider built-ins or multifunctional wardrobes that don’t take over the room.

2. More to Clean and Maintain

A bigger closet means more to take care of. Floors to vacuum, surfaces to dust, mirrors to wipe, shelves to reorganize. And if you’re not naturally tidy, walk-in closets can quickly become catch-all zones for laundry piles, out-of-season clothes, or things you meant to deal with later.

Without a consistent system, it’s easy for your closet to go from “Pinterest-perfect” to “where did I put that?” in no time.

A smaller space often forces better habits: Less space = fewer places to hide the mess.

Pro tip: Have a regular reset routine to keep clutter in check (and label everything).

3. Higher Cost to Build or Remodel

Walk-ins can be expensive, especially if you’re designing one from scratch. Between custom shelving, cabinetry, lighting, flooring, and decor, the investment can add up quickly.

Even a modest walk-in often requires some level of renovation to get it right, which means factoring in design fees, materials, and labor. It’s important to weigh how much value it actually adds to your lifestyle (and your home) compared to the cost.

Budget tip: Consider modular or semi-custom closet kits for a more affordable, flexible option.

4. Not Always Necessary

Let’s be honest, not everyone needs a walk-in closet. If you’re a minimalist, a capsule wardrobe convert, or simply don’t own that many clothes, a walk-in might be more space than substance.

A well-planned reach-in closet or freestanding wardrobe can serve the same function at a fraction of the size and cost. For some people, less space actually makes it easier to stay intentional and organized.

Ask yourself: Do I need more storage — or do I just need fewer things?

5. Can Encourage Over-Accumulation

More space can be a double-edged sword. While walk-ins are meant to help you stay organized, they can also enable clutter. With room to spare, it’s easy to keep things “just in case,” or hold onto pieces you haven’t worn in years.

Without regular editing, walk-in closets can become cluttered museums of your past style, rather than a functional space for your present life.

Mindful reminder: A great closet supports your current life — not just your past (or imagined future).

So, Is a Walk-In Closet Really Worth It?

As you’ve seen, the answer really depends on your lifestyle and how you want your home to function. Here’s a quick recap to help you decide.

A walk-in closet IS LIKELY WORTH IT if:

• You have the space to build it without sacrificing key living areas.
• You’ll use it as more than just storage; think dressing room, organization hub, or personal retreat.
• You love the idea of a private, personalized area dedicated to your wardrobe.
• You’re looking to increase your home’s long-term value or buyer appeal.

A walk-in MIGHT NOT BE WORTH IT if:

• You’re working with limited square footage or a tighter budget.
• You prefer a minimalist lifestyle or already manage well with less.
• You don’t have a large wardrobe and don’t want the temptation to fill one.

Final Tips Before You Commit

Before you break out the floor plans or start pinning your dream closet, take a step back and think strategically. There are a few key things to consider before making the leap:

• Measure your space: Could a smartly organized reach-in or wardrobe offer similar function without taking up valuable room?
• Set a realistic budget: Walk-ins can range from simple DIY setups to luxury builds. Know what you’re comfortable spending before diving in.
• Think long-term: Will your lifestyle grow into the space, or might it outgrow it? Consider how your needs may shift over time.
• Prioritize lighting: Good lighting instantly elevates any closet. Whether it’s recessed lights, LED strips, or a chandelier, it makes a major impact on both style and function.

Bottom Line

A walk-in closet can be a dream space, but only if it truly works for you. Don’t get caught up in trends or square footage envy. Focus on building a setup that fits your home, your wardrobe, and your everyday life.

You may also like: Closets Around the World: How Different Cultures Store Their Style

The post Walk-In Closets: Pros, Cons & How to Know If It’s Right for You appeared first on HomelyVille.

Here are nine inspiring ideas to breathe new life into that space — whether you want peace, productivity, or just a little more personality in your home.

1. Recording or Podcast Booth

Closets are naturally quiet, enclosed spaces — making them surprisingly perfect for recording. So if you’re a podcaster, musician, voice actor, or content creator, converting an unused closet into a mini sound booth is a smart, space-savvy move.

What you’ll need:

• Soundproofing materials
• Mic + recording setup
• Wall-mounted shelf or small desk
• Comfortable chair or standing mat
• LED or task lighting

You should start the process by soundproofing the space. Use acoustic panels, blankets, or even insulated curtains to absorb echo and block outside noise. For the best results, cover as much of the walls, ceiling, and door as possible.

Next, install a compact desk or floating shelf to hold your gear. A quality microphone, pop filter, audio interface, and a good pair of headphones are essential. Prefer to stand while recording? Add a cushioned anti-fatigue mat. If you’ll be sitting, choose a supportive chair that fits comfortably in the space.

Lighting is just as important. Soft LED strips or a focused desk lamp can reduce eye strain and help create a professional setup. If you plan to film video content as well, add a ring light and a clean backdrop for a polished, consistent look.

Finish it off with cable management. Clips or Velcro ties will keep cords neat and out of the way.

This cozy DIY booth can deliver impressive sound quality while keeping your work-from-home setup sleek and functional.

2. Mini Gaming Nook

Don’t have a spare room for gaming? No problem. A small closet can become an epic, fully functional gaming nook — with all the comfort and immersion of a full-size setup, minus the footprint.

Add to your setup:

• Wall-mounted monitor or screen
• Gaming console or mini PC
• RGB or LED strip lights
• Soundproofing (optional)
• Mini keyboard tray or pull-out shelf

Start by mounting your monitor or screen to the wall. This frees up desk space and helps create an eye-level, immersive view. Whether you’re playing on a console or compact PC, keep your gear organized with clean cord routing and minimal clutter.

To boost the vibe, install LED strip lighting or RGB accents. Not only do they look great, but they also enhance the atmosphere for evening gaming sessions. And if you’re worried about sound, consider adding foam panels or soundproof curtains to help dampen noise and keep your sessions discreet.

For PC users, a pull-out keyboard tray or compact desk can make the most of limited space. Also, don’t forget to add floating shelves for storing controllers, headphones, or collectible figures, and a nearby USB hub for easy charging and accessory access.

Finally, choose a comfy, ergonomic chair that fits the layout — ideally one that tucks in or folds when not in use.

Want to go the extra mile? Add a snack drawer, a mini fridge, or a dedicated charging dock to turn your closet into the ultimate self-contained gaming cave.

3. Makeup or Beauty Vanity

If you’re tired of doing your makeup at the bathroom sink or balancing a mirror on the floor, transforming a closet into a dedicated beauty vanity could be the upgrade you’ve been dreaming of. It offers a private, stylish space to get ready and brings a little everyday luxury to your routine.

Closet-to-vanity essentials:

• Mirror with built-in lights
• Compact vanity table or shelf
• Drawers, organizers, and bins
• Stool or chic vanity chair
• Shelving or trays

The first thing you’ll need is quality lighting. A vanity mirror with built-in lights or a Hollywood-style setup is ideal for creating soft, shadow-free illumination. Pair it with a compact vanity table or a wall-mounted shelf (just enough space for your daily essentials without overwhelming the area).

You can keep things organized with a mix of drawers, acrylic bins, and containers for your makeup, brushes, skincare, and hair tools. A sleek stool or vanity chair that tucks neatly under the table will keep the space streamlined and easy to navigate.

Want to take it up a notch? Line your drawers with velvet trays for delicate accessories. Use hooks or a pegboard inside the closet door to store flat irons, headbands, or sheet masks. And if you need more room, a slim rolling cart can add flexible, portable storage without cluttering the space.

You can add some personality with floating shelves for perfumes, framed prints or mood boards, and a mini Bluetooth speaker to set the tone. A touch of greenery or a vase of fresh flowers brings a soft, feel-good vibe that makes the space all yours.

4. Reading Nook or Book Closet

For book lovers, there’s something magical about having your own cozy corner to escape into a story — and an unused closet can become the perfect reading sanctuary.

Interestingly, back in the 17th century, what was referred to as a “closet” was often used for reading, studying, and prayer. So, in a way, you’ll be bringing history full circle!

To set it up, add:

• Bookshelves or wall-mounted racks
• Cozy lighting
• Soft floor cushion or small armchair
• Layered textures

Think vertical when it comes to storage. Narrow bookshelves or floating ledges are perfect for small spaces and can help keep your collection neat and accessible. Whether it’s a reach-in or a walk-in, adjustable shelves allow for a customized fit.

Lighting sets the mood, so go for something soft and inviting. Fairy lights, a clip-on reading lamp, or a warm-glow table lamp all work beautifully. For seating, use what fits. Try a small armchair in larger closets, or a floor cushion, beanbag, or oversized pillow setup in smaller ones.

You can make it even cozier by layering in plush textures like a soft rug, a couple of throw pillows, and a blanket to create a relaxing vibe you won’t want to leave. These details make a huge difference in how comfortable and welcoming the space feels.

To finish, bring in some personal charm. Paint the inside of the closet a rich, moody color (like navy, forest green, terracotta) or add playful peel-and-stick wallpaper. A framed quote, a potted plant, or a tiny shelf for your tea mug can make this little nook feel like your favorite place in the house.

5. Home Office or Study Station

Closets can make excellent micro-offices, especially in smaller homes or shared spaces where a full room isn’t an option. With a few thoughtful upgrades, even a compact closet can become a focused, clutter-free workspace.

Essentials:

• Desk or wall-mounted workspace
• Task lighting or overhead light
• Storage solutions
• Chair that fits

Start by installing a space-saving desk. A floating shelf or fold-down model works well and leaves room underneath for your legs or small storage. Lighting is also crucial here, so opt for a desk lamp with adjustable brightness or mount a slim overhead light to keep things well-lit and comfortable.

To stay organized, use vertical storage like pegboards, wall baskets, or a slim drawer unit beneath the desk. Keep your daily essentials (like notebooks, chargers, and headphones) within reach but out of the way for a clean, distraction-free setup.

Choose an ergonomic chair that fits the space well. If floor space is limited, consider one that folds or slides completely under the desk.

For a more productive environment, add a corkboard or whiteboard for brainstorming, to-do lists, or creative ideas. Finally, install a power strip and use cord clips or ties to keep your tech setup neat and efficient.

6. Art, Craft, or Sewing Studio

If you’re a creative type with nowhere to spread out your projects, a closet can be the perfect solution. Turning it into an art, craft, or sewing studio gives you a defined zone to create — without taking over your dining table or spare bedroom.

What you might need:

• Work surface
• Drawer carts or bins
• Pegboard wall
• Lighting

First, you’ll need a solid work surface. A compact table or fold-down desk works great, especially in smaller closets. It’s also smart to get drawer carts, storage bins, or rolling organizers to sort your materials, whether it’s fabric, yarn, paints, or paper goods.

Next, add a pegboard on the wall to hang your most-used tools like scissors, measuring tape, brushes, or ribbons. It keeps your space functional while doubling as creative wall decor.

For lighting, aim for bright and clear. Natural light is ideal, but a bright LED task lamp will ensure you’re not straining your eyes during detailed work.

Finally, if your projects involve vertical work like painting or pattern-cutting, include a stool and easel. Install a magnetic strip for sewing tools or small metal objects, and store odds and ends in clear jars or labeled bins for easy access and a clean aesthetic.

7. Wellness Corner (Meditation or Yoga Space)

If you’ve been craving a quiet place to breathe, stretch, or simply unplug, your closet can become the perfect little wellness retreat. With a few calming elements, it can support everything from yoga and meditation to breathwork and quiet reflection.

Set the scene with:

• Yoga mat or meditation cushion
• Aromatherapy
• Low lighting
• Sound

Begin by softening the space with a yoga mat or meditation cushion in a soothing color palette. You can bring in ambiance with a diffuser and essential oils like lavender, eucalyptus, or sandalwood. Low lighting — such as fairy lights, a salt lamp, or a warm-glow bulb — helps set a peaceful tone.

For audio atmosphere, a Bluetooth speaker can play ambient soundscapes, guided meditations, or gentle background music to support focus and calm. The addition of sound is subtle but grounding.

To make the space feel more intentional, try hanging a sheer curtain or macramé panel at the entrance to create a sense of privacy. These simple additions help visually separate the area from the rest of your home.

Finish it off with personal touches: a small tray with crystals, a journal, intention cards, or a few items that help you feel centered.

8. Mini Mudroom or Entry Closet

Closets near the entryway often go unused or turn into clutter zones. But with a few simple upgrades, you can turn one into a tidy, functional mini mudroom that keeps your home running more smoothly.

Smart additions:

• Bench with storage
• Wall hooks or pegs
• Shoe rack or boot tray
• Catch-all bin or basket

You can start by adding a bench with built-in storage. It’s perfect for putting on shoes and stashing away gloves, scarves, or pet gear. Above that, add wall hooks or pegs for jackets, hats, backpacks, or even pet leashes — everything you grab on your way out.

To manage footwear, a slim shoe rack or boot tray can keep things clean and contained. Use baskets or bins to catch daily essentials like keys, sunglasses, or mail so they don’t end up scattered across the house.

Add finishing touches to make the space feel polished. A mirror is great for last-minute outfit checks, and a narrow shelf or mounted hook keeps keys and wallets in one predictable spot.

If you want it to feel more designed, paint the inside a pop color or line the walls with patterned peel-and-stick wallpaper. A closet-turned-mudroom not only adds charm—it adds daily efficiency.

9. Plant Closet or Indoor Garden

If you don’t have outdoor space but still dream of being surrounded by greenery, your unused closet can become a charming little indoor garden. It’s an ideal solution for apartment dwellers or plant lovers in the city who crave a natural escape.

What you’ll need:

• Grow lights
• Plant stands, open shelving, or hanging planters
• Humidity tray or mini humidifier
• Wall hooks or pegboard

Even without windows, you can make it work. Install full-spectrum LED grow lights on a timer to mimic natural daylight. Use open shelving, plant stands, or hanging planters to take advantage of vertical space while keeping everything accessible for watering and care.

Tropical plants, in particular, benefit from consistent humidity, so a small humidifier or humidity tray can help maintain the right balance.

For extra efficiency, install a pegboard or hooks on the wall to organize tools like gloves, shears, and watering cans. It not only keeps your gear tidy but gives the space a greenhouse-meets-garden-shed feel.

If you’re feeling ambitious, consider adding a mini potting station or a fold-down work surface for repotting. A compact compost bin for clippings or kitchen scraps can also turn this space into a mini eco-hub.

Final Thoughts: Don’t Let Good Space Go to Waste

Closets aren’t just for clothes. If your lifestyle has changed and your wardrobe doesn’t need as much space as it used to, repurposing a closet is a smart way to make your home work harder (and cooler) for you.

Small spaces have big potential — especially when they reflect your real life. Whether you’re crafting, gaming, meditating, or recording, the most satisfying transformations start with a simple question: What do I need more of in my life right now? Your answer might be the start of your next favorite room.

You may also like: How to Add a Room to Your House for Cheap

The post 9 Creative Closet Conversions You’ll Wish You Tried Sooner appeared first on HomelyVille.

Having the room or rooms ready for you to paint will make your job that much easier. So here are some of the things you’ll need to do before even seeing a can of paint.

The following step-by-step guide is really a mix of things I learned over the years I’ve been painting my own walls and some tips I found online. Without further ado, let’s get to it.

1. Take Small Items to Another Room

You can start with the small stuff. The knick-knacks you keep on your tables, chairs, and other small decorative items can all go to another room for the duration of the paint job.

If you’re already pressed for space, you can also shuffle things around just to gain access to the walls. However, you can also just stuff everything in the middle of the room.

2. Move Big Pieces of Furniture to the Middle of the Room

If you have large pieces of furniture, you don’t want to have to move them out only to have to return them the next day. If you have tall bookshelves, wardrobes, or cabinets, you can slide them across the floor toward the middle of the room. Make sure to roll up your carpets first, if you have any.

I recommend having a helper slide a rag underneath it, then leaning it to the other side and sliding another rag there, too. If you have wooden floors, that will allow the heavy furniture to slide more easily. Moving the furniture to the middle of the room is going to help you get to the walls later.

If you don’t have a place to sleep, though, you can just take the mattress and put it on the floor in another room and leave the bed frame in the room.

3. Get Supplies

At this point, you can bring some of your supplies into the room. I went ahead and made a list of everything you’ll need to paint your walls from start to finish. So you can refer back to that if you need it — in fact, I’m sure I’ll use that list from time to time too. Hey, even I forget to buy things — that’s why having a list is important.

The complete list is much longer than what I’m about to present to you. Still, these are just the things you’ll need to prep the room for painting:

• Claw hammer or pliers
• Screwdriver
• Painter’s tape
• Canvas or plastic covers
• Old newspapers
• Ladders

Wondering what this assortment of tools is for? Allow me to explain.

4. Take Off Any Artwork

The first few items on the list above are for removing various things from your walls. If you have any paintings, prints, or posters on the walls, now would be the time to take them off.

Just make sure that you take all of the artwork somewhere safe. Don’t put it in a place that gets a lot of foot traffic and don’t put it in a moist place either. You can pretty much use your common sense with this one. And after you take the artwork off, you can use the claw hammer or the pliers to take the nails off the walls.

5. Remove Outlet Covers and Switch Plates

Now you’ll want to take off anything else that remains on the walls. These will mostly be outlet covers and light switch plates. However, if you have an air vent in the room, you can also take the grates off of that. Our goal is to have as much access to the wall as possible. Trust me — the bits of the old color peeking out from underneath the switch plate get incredibly annoying after a while.

If you have a screwdriver, now’s the time to get it. Personally, I like the ones with magnetic bits that hold onto the screws as you take them out. But really, you can use any old screwdriver — this isn’t rocket science.

When you take the covers and the plates off, I suggest putting each of them into a small lunch bag along with the screws that kept it attached. I also like to use a regular marker to label which cover came from which outlet, just because. And, before you put the covers into the bags, you can also clean them a bit. That way, they’ll be as good as new when you go to put them back.

6. Take Off the Lighting Fixtures

I usually take off my lighting fixtures after I’ve covered my furniture, mostly because I don’t want any dust raining down on it from above. However, you can also do it now, while you’ve got your screwdriver in hand.

Just position your ladder underneath the lighting fixture and take a look. Many of the glass bowl types of fixtures don’t even require a screwdriver to take off, so you may be able to do this by just tugging the right thing.

When you come down from the ladder with your bowl, you should wash it and store it someplace safe. Usually, these things are full of tiny insects, so be careful when you’re carrying the lighting fixtures down. Empty the bugs out into the trash can and wash the bowl as you would wash your dishes.

Of course, this is applicable to just this one type of lighting fixture; others might entail a different approach. For example, if you don’t want to take off your lighting fixture or you don’t believe that you need to, you can also just cover it with plastic and tape.

7. Dust and Vacuum

Before you cover everything up, you should do a bit of cleaning. Get rid of any cobwebs you may have discovered when you moved all of your furniture. I also use this opportunity to get the dust off of my tallest wardrobe — I basically only clean it when I’m painting the room.

Use a vacuum with a brush attachment on it to pick up everything that might have found its way to your floor.

8. Cover Everything

Now let’s put those drop covers and painter’s tape to good use. If all of your furniture is in the middle of the room, covering it will be easy. You can get a friend to help you — and if the mountain of furniture is too tall, you can use ladders or chairs to go above it.

Once the cover is in place, you can tape it down with painter’s tape or improvise with belts or safety pins (if you have a canvas drop cloth). However, if you do end up using a canvas cover, you should also have some type of plastic underneath it, just in case the paint seeps through.

But your furniture island isn’t the only thing you’ll need to cover. You should also protect your windows by taping them. If you feel confident, you can just tape the edges closest to the walls you’ll be painting. However, you can also put old newspapers over the parts of the window you want to protect, and then use the painter’s tape.

Finally, you’ll need to cover the floor. I’d go for a sturdier plastic tarp here (in fact, thicker plastic is always better than the thin one since you’re able to reuse it). Just lay the cover on the floor and tape it down around the edges. You can either work in pieces or get a tarp large enough for the whole floor and tape all around it.

Additionally, if you have baseboards — those small wooden boards at the bottom of your walls — you can also protect those with tape. And you’ll want to put a piece of tape over the outlets and the light switches as well (unless you want to paint them). Basically, you don’t want to see anything except for the walls you’ll be painting.

9. Prepare the Walls

Now that you’ve cleared everything and covered it, you have to prepare the walls themselves. I do have another article that goes into this in much more detail. But for now, we can talk about the purpose of prepping your drywall. What do you even need to do to get your walls ready for paint?

Well, first, you need to get the walls as smooth as possible. That includes:

• Spackling over any holes in the walls, no matter what size. If you removed the nails from your walls, this would help you cover up the holes. Keep in mind that spackle takes a day to fully dry.
• Using 220-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to even out the surface of the wall. You will need protective gear for this. Also, the Internet is full of warnings about pre-1978 homes that have lead paint. So you can test for it before you start sanding.
• Wiping your walls with a damp sponge and a bit of dish soap. That will remove the dust and leave your walls ready for the next step.

10. Prime

The last step before you get to apply your new paint is really optional. However, if you want light paint to show up over dark or vibrant colors, you will need a great primer. I have several primer and paint recommendations in the article I’ve linked to, so I won’t bore you with the details here.

Room Prep for Paint Jobs: Final Thoughts

Once your walls have been primed, there’s nothing else to do but go in with your paint. Trust me, painting your walls yourself is much easier than it may seem. In fact, I find it pretty relaxing. However, if you want to feel more confident about it before you start, I recommend checking out my other guides.

That’s actually how I started to paint my own walls, too. The Internet is full of helpful resources if you know how to find them. Hopefully, these guides will be useful to someone else looking to get into home decor.

The post How to Prep Your Room for Painting: 10 Steps to a Clean Paint Job appeared first on HomelyVille.

Brown is a very versatile, warm color. It can make other, bolder colors pop and be the perfect “backup dancer” to their stardom. However, it can also be a real star. So if you’re a lover of brown just like I am and are in the midst of redecorating, you might be wondering what color walls go with brown furniture.

The answer to that question will be music to your ears. Almost all colors go swellingly with brown furniture. However, some simply make better pairings than others. Let’s take a look, shall we?

1. How Much Brown Is Too Much Brown

My first suggestion might seem odd to some, but here it is — brown furniture, especially wooden furniture, goes great with brown walls. However, there are a few tricks that will make all the shades of brown pop.

When mixing brown furniture and brown walls, you have to be careful. If you go too dark, you might end up feeling as if you’re living in a mud hole. On the other hand, if you go too light, you’ll turn your room into a sepia nightmare. When combining brown tones, the trick is in the balance.

Play Around With Shading

If you have dark brown furniture, then I don’t have to tell you that dark brown walls won’t be your friend. Of course, that all depends on the type of space you’re redecorating. The dark-on-dark theme might look good if you have a huge area and are going for that “cigar-bar-in-the-prohibition-era” type of vibe.

But if you have a regular old living room (or bedroom, or any other room), like most of us do, go for a bit of contrast. Light brown or even beige tones will make the dark furniture pop. What’s more, these won’t be too overbearing or make the room appear too dark or closed off.

2. You Can Never Go Wrong With White

White isn’t the most exciting suggestion — I’ll give you that. However, crisp white walls often look the most gorgeous. What’s more, they make the entire room look more spacious, light, and comfortable.

White isn’t hard on the eyes, and it’s the perfect choice to enhance those deep, rich, and luscious tones of your brown furniture. Furthermore, the white-brown combination creates a cozy, relaxed atmosphere. It’s the traditional charm at its finest!

To make your room even more beautiful, consider incorporating brown details on your white walls. Big, sturdy, full-wood shelves or natural brown leather (or pleather) details will only enhance the rustic vibe.

3. Royal Blue With Crisp White Trims

This choice is one of my personal favorites. It’s an ideal combination for big rooms that feel empty. However, it’s also a good pick for smaller rooms, as long as they have a lot of natural light.

Deep dark blue walls can complement your brown furniture in a way you probably never imagined. Although this combination is a bit heavy, especially if the furniture is dark brown, it’s also the most regal-looking one on my list. And when you add those fresh white trims, the room will look like a castle ballroom!

This elegant combination will get even better if you spruce it up with some fancy artwork that has gold hues. Gold frames or gold details throughout the room (like a pair of cute, fluffy throw pillows) will pull the entire look (and feel) of the room together.

4. Forest Green and All Its Friends

Is there anything that goes as well as green and brown? Probably not. These two colors are the ones that are most represented in nature. Therefore, they are massive hits in interior design. Rooms with green walls and brown furniture exude that organic, natural vibe that’s relaxing and stimulating at the same time.

If you’re a fan of green, you can go one of two ways — light or dark. Much like my dark blue suggestion, dark green with colder undertones will make the atmosphere pleasant and relaxing. However, be careful not to go too dark, especially in a small room.

Light green is energetic, lively, and vibrant. It meshes perfectly with both light and dark brown furniture, especially if you throw in some dark green accent details.

5. Go Boldly Where Only a Few Dare to Go

Bold, bright colors make great accents — we all know that. But these colors, such as bright orange, fuschia, and turquoise, can also be fantastic choices for your walls. Yes, they are loud and radiant and might even be overbearing at times. However, they can still be used as wall paint colors if you balance them out.

Consider using decorative wallpaper that has a combination of bolder and more subdued tones of fuschia, turquoise, or orange. You can do all four walls or pick one of them to be an accent wall while you paint the rest in a more low-key tone.

Either way, looking at a room decorated with bright colors combined with brown furniture will leave the impression of luscious springtime fruit trees. Imagine a glorious peach three with its dark brown bark and bright pink, orange, and purple flowers (or, even better, fruits!). Is there anything more aesthetically pleasing?

6. You Are My Sunshine (Yellow)

Warm, pleasant, and sunny yellow will make any room look brighter, roomier, and more comfortable. Yellow walls are ideal for small, dark rooms, as they give the illusion of natural light. Therefore, this might be the perfect choice for you if you’re redecorating a room that doesn’t get enough sunshine.

Most people would be afraid to put brown furniture in a small, dark room. Of course, there’s a significant risk of making the place look even more ominous and dungeon-like. Well, that’s simply not a possibility with bright sunny walls.

Bright yellow is pure. It reminds us of innocence and happiness. It’s also the perfect juxtaposition to the brown. However, if you think light yellow isn’t bold enough for your inner interior designer, you can always go with the deeper shades like mustard and medallion yellow.

7. Luxury in Royal Purple

Purple and brown is a potent combination. However, it can also be a winning one if you play your (sample color) cards right.

Not every shade of purple will work. In fact, only a few of them will give you the desired luxurious, exquisite effect you’re probably going for. Bright purple or lavender will never accentuate brown as well as plum purple will. Plum is deep and plush, just like brown, so the combined effect will look like pure opulence.

This combination is especially suitable for small, frequently used spaces like powder rooms. Why go the boring route when you can have a plum brown bathroom, right?

8. Powder Rose Femininity

If you think that purple and brown are too intense or loud for you, I don’t blame you. That particular combination can sometimes be overwhelming. That’s why my next suggestion is a mellower version, the younger sister, or even a distant cousin of the powerful purple-brown combination — powder-rose and brown.

Powder rose is a soft color that exudes femininity. It’s innocent, inconspicuous, and yet elegant and luxurious at the same time. Much like lavender or any of the pastel colors, powder rose gives out that romantic old-time vibe of a lady’s chambers.

Although some might classify this combination as too girly, I think that’s a great injustice. Powder rose is pleasant to the eye and ideal for bedrooms, as it’s not too harsh or too bland.

9. Embrace the Latest Trends

If you haven’t hopped on the “mint” train that first came into our lives back in 2015, maybe now is a perfect time. Mint is a fantastic shade that beautifully complements brown furniture, which is why it found its way on my list.

A colder tone by nature, mint is refreshing and natural-looking. What’s more, it is an ideal balance between masculine and feminine colors, given that it’s a more refreshing tone while also being gentle.

You can go for a more greeny mint or one that’s bluer. Either way, the brown furniture will be almost overshadowed by this fantastic color. Since it’s an attractive shade, mint walls and cozy brown furniture make an ideal combination for both living rooms and bedrooms.

10. Opulence in Copper and Gold

Copper and gold are rich, luxurious colors that are also whimsical and magical. I know that’s a lot of attributes, but gold and copper sparkle and shine, especially when paired with deep, chocolate-like brown furniture.

Aside from bringing a bit of much-needed sparkle in your life, gold and copper (which you can even use as individual colors or combine them for a more powerful “wow” effect) are also bold. A room with gold walls and brown furniture is no ordinary room — it’s a statement — a masterpiece if you will.

If you opt to paint your walls in these colors, I also recommend making them a bit textured. You’ll add dimension and depth to the room, and the brown furniture will stand out even more (if that’s even possible). Of course, you can always go for the toned-down version of this combination and paint just one or two walls while making the others more subtle.

A Few Parting Words

Of course, there are many more colors and shades that go swimmingly with brown furniture. These are just some of my personal favorites that please my inner interior designer. No matter which one you choose, always remember to swatch the paint (or paints) on the walls and see what it looks like both in daylight and during the night. That’s the only way to know if the color you’ve chosen is the perfect fit for the room you’re redecorating.

The post What Color Walls Go With Brown Furniture: 10 Tips & Ideas appeared first on HomelyVille.

When transitioning wood flooring between rooms, transition strips make the area neater, sturdier, and safer to tread. Keep in mind that your choice of wood flooring and flooring placement will affect the overall appearance and effectiveness of the transition.

In this article, I’ll explain why you need transition strips and cover the various types to choose from. I’ll also talk about changing wood flooring direction between rooms, various wood flooring patterns, and how to harmonize wood floors through contrast or coordination.

Is It OK to Change the Direction of Wood Flooring Between Rooms?

It is OK to change the direction of wood flooring between rooms when installed on a concrete slab base. Otherwise, wood floors must be installed perpendicular to the joists. Joists cannot properly support wood flooring installed parallel to them as the flooring will simply fall through.

Direction is more restrictive for wood floors supported by joists since it’s installed perpendicular to the joists by design. Installing wood floors parallel to the joists is folly. Wood planks not supported by joists aren’t structurally sound. These planks can’t support much weight and will likely fail with normal foot traffic, if not on their own.

While flooring materials such as vinyl, tile, and laminate are commonly installed on slabs, wood flooring installations aren’t unheard of. Hardwood flooring is a good candidate. However, it does take more effort to do so. The slab must be properly prepared before installing wood flooring, as the wood won’t adhere well to a dirty, uneven surface.

Additionally, you’ll need to add a subfloor onto the slab before the actual wood flooring. The subfloor helps protect the flooring from any moisture the concrete slab may have. Still, if you don’t mind the task of installing wood flooring on a concrete slab, you’re free to change the flooring direction between rooms as you please.

Consider Using Parquet Flooring Patterns

Besides changing wood flooring directions, you can use parquetry to create interesting floor patterns. Parquet floors are a type of wood flooring that comes in small pieces that fit together like a puzzle.

There are plenty of different parquet patterns you can choose from. Common patterns include:

• Herringbone Parquet: A herringbone is a type of wood flooring made from small pieces of wood installed in a zigzag pattern.
• Chevron Parquet: Chevrons are similar to herringbone, but the individual wood pieces are parallelograms instead of rectangles.
• Basket Weave Parquet: Basketweave patterns are installed in a regular alternating horizontal and vertical pattern resembling a weave.

Keep in mind, parquet installation is more challenging than regular wood flooring. It’s best to leave this to the professionals unless you’re confident in your DIY skills.

Benefits of Using Transition Strips

Transition Strips Provide a More Gradual Height Change Between Floors

You should install transition strips between rooms when floors are of differing heights. Transition strips provide a more gradual height change, making it safer for people to walk through. Without them, you run the risk of people tripping over the divide.

Transition Strips Protect Floors From Foot Traffic

Aside from protecting you from the aforementioned trip hazard, transition strips protect thinner wood floorings that can peel off at the transition point due to heavy foot traffic. Simply adding a transition strip over the area prevents this from happening over the course of regular use.

Transition Strips Protect Adjoining Floors From Each Other

Wood floors not only look different, but they also behave differently. Specifically, wood types respond to temperature and humidity changes at different rates.

If your rooms have vastly different wood flooring types, they may damage each other while naturally expanding and contracting. Placing the proper transition strip between the floors will give them the breathing room to grow or shrink freely with the temperature.

Transition Strips Add Visual Interest to the Space

Aesthetically, transition strips can be a nice way to blend the different colors and materials of your wood flooring. Abrupt changes in flooring can be an eyesore, but a well-chosen transition strip helps the visual flow from one space to another without distraction.

Types of Transition Strips for Wood-to-Wood Transitions

When transitioning two wood floors, the floors are usually similar enough that you can use simpler transition strips such as t-moldings, reducers, and thresholds.

Other transition strips like carpet grippers exist, but they specialize in transitioning different flooring materials outside this article’s scope.

T-Moldings Connect Level Floorings

T-moldings transition floorings of similar height. In the case of two wood floors, the t-molding will sit in the space between the two floors and cover the expansion gap.

They’re available in different widths to accommodate different-sized expansion gaps.

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Reducers Join Floors With Noticeable Height Differences

If the floors you’ve chosen for transitioning are of different heights, you’ll want to use a reducer strip. Reducers create a smooth transition between the two floors and are available in different sizes to accommodate various height differences.

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Thresholds Mark Transitions at Entryways

Thresholds are similar to reducers in that they transition floors of different heights. The main difference is that thresholds taper on both sides while reducers only taper on one.

Thresholds are typically used at cased openings, doorways, and other entryways.

Tips For Matching, Contrasting, and Coordinating Wood Floors

While transition strips make the flooring connections safer and neater, the choice of wood flooring between rooms plays a big aesthetic role. The two floors can play on each other either through contrast or coordination.

Or you can throw away the flooring transition idea altogether and just stick with one wood flooring type across both rooms.

Match Your Flooring Throughout and Unify the Space

If flooring transitions don’t appeal to you, or if you just want to make the most of your wood flooring, matching the floors in different rooms is a great option.

Having the same wood flooring throughout your rooms creates visual flow and makes your home feel more spacious. Floor matching works well with an open-concept floor plan where different rooms blend.

In spaces with the same wood flooring between rooms, you distinguish the rooms through other means, such as through the furniture, appliances, wallpaper, and decorations you choose.

Differentiate Your Wood Floors Through Contrast

Using different types of wood flooring between rooms can create a dramatic and appealing look. You can achieve this flooring style by mixing and matching different colors, species, and plank sizes.

For example, if you’re using a light maple floor in one room and a dark walnut floor in another, look for furniture or decorations that feature both light and dark wood tones to help connect the spaces.

Contrasting works best for clearly divided spaces but can also be used in more open floor designs to help define different zones.

Make Subtle but Tasteful Variations by Coordinating Your Wood Floors

If you want to use different types of wood flooring between rooms but don’t want a stark contrast, try coordinating the floors instead. To do this, find two types of flooring that share a common element, such as color or wood grain.

For example, you could use maple flooring in one room and cherry flooring in another. Both kinds of wood are lightly colored, working well together. If you want a little more contrast, try using oak floors in one room and walnut floors in another. Both wood types are dark, but the walnut will have a richer color.

You can also achieve coordination by using the same type of wood flooring in different rooms but with different plank sizes. For example, you might use wide-plank flooring in your living room and thinner strips in your kitchen. The common wood element helps connect the two spaces, while the different plank sizes add some variety.

Coordinating is also a great way to use leftover flooring from other projects. If you have some planks from your last flooring installation, you can use them to start your new project and save on costs.

Final Thoughts

Well-executed wood flooring transitions can add interest and flair to your home. You can use them to make a bold statement or create a more unified space. Ultimately, the best transition for your home will depend on your taste and the overall design of your house.

Be sure to hire experienced professionals to install your wood flooring and help you achieve the best results. They can advise you on different types of flooring and provide a seamless transition that looks beautiful and lasts for years.

See also: Hardwood vs. Laminate vs. Vinyl Flooring

The post Transitioning Wood Flooring Between Rooms: Tips & Transition Strips appeared first on HomelyVille.

In the rest of this article, I’ll take you through everything you need to know about how to create additional rooms in your home, so you can upgrade your space and make it match your expectations better.

1. Split Larger Rooms Into Two Spaces

Adding an entire new room to your home can be a pricey endeavor. These types of renovations can cost thousands of dollars, and not everyone has the financial means to afford that. In addition to being expensive, house additions can also take a lot of time and effort.

One of the cheapest ways to add a room to your house is to split larger rooms into two (or more) individual rooms.

This is an excellent way to upgrade your house without heavily affecting its structural integrity. This solution does not add to your house but instead divides a space you already have into sections to better meet your needs.

While this approach won’t add to the square footage of your home, it will decrease wasted space and promote higher functionality throughout your space. This fix is a lot more affordable than building a whole new bedroom, and it can ultimately improve your lifestyle with adjustments that suit your own needs.

2. Convert a Garage Into One or Two Rooms

Another excellent way to add a room to your house for cheap is to renovate your garage.

Most people use their garage as a parking space, a workshop, or a place to store barely-used furniture and clutter. However, let’s suppose you’re the kind of person who solely uses their garage to store a few empty paint cans or holiday decorations. In that case, you should definitely consider putting this valuable space to much better use. You can do so by converting your garage into one or multiple bedrooms.

Converting a garage is a relatively simple renovation project because it’s mostly cosmetic. Your garage is already a part of your home, and it most likely already has lighting fixtures.

Because of this, the conversion process, in many a lot of cases, is hassle-free and only involves simple improvements to the ceiling, walls, and floor. Adding proper insulation is probably the most complex this project will get– that is, if your garage is in an okay condition, suitable for living arrangements.

If you so desire, you can even renovate your garage into a studio space and rent it out to roommates or as an Airbnb, creating a valuable second stream of income.

As you can see, even though this type of renovation can require a bit of an initial investment, not only will you be adding resell value to your house, but you can also make an actual, short-term profit out of it.

3. Retrofit an Outdoor Wood Shed

Retrofitting an outdoor wood shed is another great way to add an additional bedroom to your home.

When you first buy a shed, it’ll probably be empty and made entirely of plain wood. This means that in order to make your shed a functional room, you have to make quite a few significant changes.

Here are some things you should add to a wood shed to make it a functional room:

• Proper insulation
• Drywall, like plywood
• Paint
• Flooring
• Electricity
• Windows (if not included already)
• Lighting installations
• Built-in furniture (optional)
• Air conditioning
• Heating system
• Running water (for a studio)

While this may or may not count as a bedroom on paper, it can certainly serve as a highly functional spare bedroom, studio, or office space.

4. Add a Modular Room or Guest House

Another solution for adding an extra room to your house on a budget is to purchase a modular room.

Modular construction is the process that takes place when a building is constructed separately from the location it’s ultimately supposed to be. Many homes are often made through modular construction and then set up on empty acreage. However, you don’t need to purchase an entire modular home. You can also buy individual rooms.

The reason why modular construction has become so popular over the years is that it’s cost-effective and takes a lot less time to build; it’s essentially purchasing a pre-built room, the same way you can buy prebuilt PCs rather than buying separate parts and making one yourself.

Modular homes are typically delivered and installed by cranes. This means that before you invest in a modular room, you have to ensure that a crane will be able to properly access your property. You should also check to see if you have any other legal or logistical restrictions that will keep you from adding a modular room to your lot.

5. Turn Your Basement Into One or Multiple Rooms

Turning your basement into one or multiple rooms is another excellent way to add a room to your house without drawing too many funds from your budget.

Again, this is a great solution because you’re not adding additional square footage to your home but instead renovating a space you already have. Because of this, retrofitting your basement to meet your bedroom needs is one of the most cost-effective and logistically sensible ways to add a spare room (or rooms) to your house.

Basements are an excellent choice for this type of project because a lot of them already come as rooms. This means that the majority of renovations you make to your basement will most likely be cosmetic, unless you want to add a kitchenette or bathroom to create a studio space. Cosmetic changes are a lot easier to achieve, as they don’t usually harm the structure of your home and are solely for aesthetic purposes.

Additionally, many basements are pretty sizey and often run underneath the entirety of your house. This means that you might be able to split your basement into more than just one room, which is excellent if you need spare bedrooms for children or other roommates. It’s also a great space for home theaters, gyms, and game rooms.

6. Renovate Your Attic Space

Another way to add an additional bedroom to your house is to renovate your attic space.

While many homes come with attics that are already renovated, not every home has a loft that is ready to be lived in right away. Your attic will most likely need cleaning, drywall, a fresh coat of paint, ceiling fixes, upgraded lighting fixtures, and suitable flooring.

Since most attics are entered by ladder and not stairs, they’re not as accessible as other rooms. This is something to keep in mind during the renovation process and while you’re assigning a purpose to the room. However, attics are excellent for cozy libraries or reading spaces, extra storage, or guest rooms.

7. Sacrifice a Laundry Room, Bathroom, or Walk-In Closet

If you want to add a room to your home without paying for the cost or hassle of adding extra square footage to the house, you might want to consider sacrificing a walk-in closet, laundry room, or bathroom in exchange for a bedroom.

Let’s take a laundry room, for example. While a laundry room may or may not be large enough to serve as a bedroom on its own, you can knock down walls and expand that particular room to make the sizing more suitable for living purposes. You can also remove the walls of walk-in closets and bathrooms to make room for layout changes.

This method is essentially just rearranging the space you already have to better suit your needs and make your house more functional.

8. Replace a Patio With an Enclosed Room

Another excellent way to add a room to your house for cheap is to replace a patio or deck with an enclosed room.

This option is more affordable than adding an entire room to the top of your house, for example. It can also increase your home’s value because this solution adds to the overall square footage by implementing an outdoor space into the layout of your home.

9. Change a Sunroom Into a Regular Room

Sunrooms make great living areas and seating spaces, but if you’re the kind of person who doesn’t use this part of the house a lot, you should consider changing it into a regular bedroom instead.

Like with a garage, sunroom renovations are typically cosmetic. You can remove a few windows, add better lighting fixtures, and change the flooring to make it a suitable bedroom. You might have to invest in some other improvements like insulation, electricity, heating, and cooling as well (if your sunroom doesn’t already have these features).

This is probably one of the most affordable options on this list because many modern sunrooms are already very similar to bedrooms– they just have quite a few windows.

10. Add an Apartment Above the Garage

Adding a small apartment above your garage is a great way to improve your home with the addition of some extra space.

This method is relatively affordable and usually pretty simple to implement. However, this approach usually involves the most time and effort out of all the options on the list. But if you’re willing to go through a longer and more complex construction process, then an above-garage apartment might be an excellent choice for you.

This option is different from an attic renovation because you can add stairs outside your house or inside your garage to reach the apartment. You can also make a bit of extra cash by turning it into an Airbnb or rental studio.

Why Should You Add a Room to Your House?

You should add a room to your house to increase your home’s value, provide more space to children or other roommates, or have a function-specific space like an office, playroom, art studio, or library.

Adding a room to your house is one of the best ways to raise the value of your home, as it adds square footage to your layout (depending on the approach you choose), and it increases the total number of bedrooms. Having more bedrooms is an excellent selling point if you’re interested in selling your house later on.

What to Use a Spare Room For

Adding a spare room is a great way to add value to your home as well as your everyday living experience. However, assigning a purpose to a room can be challenging when there are so many possibilities.

Fortunately, I’ve curated a list of some of the best uses for a spare bedroom to convince you to take a leap of faith and make the additions you’ve always wanted.

Here are some ideas regarding how you can use a spare bedroom to better meet your needs:

• Turn it into an office or writing space.
• Make it a small business workspace.
• Use it as an art studio.
• Turn it into a home library.
• Have a designated homeschool room.
• Create a recreational or game space.
• Create a home theater.
• Use it as a gym.

Let’s discuss these ideas in greater detail.

Turn It Into an Office or Writing Space

While it’s possible to get work done at a desk in a small corner of your bedroom or even at the dining room table, those options aren’t always the most efficient and can often provide a lot of distractions. Adding a separate office space to your room can help boost your productivity, asit gives you a place to concentrate in solitude.

Make It a Small Business Workspace

This is different from an office space because it’s essentially an at-home warehouse for small business owners who manufacture and package their own products.

You can add tables, shelves, creative workspaces, and packaging stations to help improve your workflow and decrease clutter.

Use It as an Art Studio

Separating your spaces into different functional areas is a great way to transition into different tasks.

For example, bedrooms can be solely for sleeping, offices can be just for working, and art studios can be specifically for creating. Having a separate space to create might help you get into an artistic mood quicker– it’s also an excellent way to hide the clutter of your art supplies collection.

Turn It Into a Home Library

A spare room is an excellent place to house your at-home library. You can also add a reading nook in the corner if you so desire, so you can give yourself a quiet place to read while surrounded by books.

Creating a peaceful, designated area to enjoy your favorite pieces of literature might encourage you to finally read your favorite author’s latest work, something many of us tend to put off for months on end.

Have a Designated Homeschool Room

If you’re a parent and homeschool your children, a room designated specifically for learning is an excellent way to keep your kids focused. It’s also a good place to store arts and crafts supplies, display completed projects, and provide your children with a place to work.

Giving them a designated space for schoolwork is a great way to make the transition from play to work a lot smoother.

Create a Recreational or Game Space

Spare bedrooms are fantastic for a recreational or game space. Game rooms are great for bonding with friends and family as well as entertaining guests.

Game rooms can include ping pong tables, couches, mini-fridges, you name it. These spaces are specifically designed for fun and allow a bit more joy to make its way into your home.

Create a Home Theater

Creating a home theater is the best way to improve your movie-watching experience, especially if you don’t have the time or the funds to constantly go out and see movies in public theaters.

A home theater can consist of a few couches and a large television, but you can also increase the luxury factor by implementing bars or kitchenettes, snack pantries, and even high-end recliners if you so desire.

Use It as a Gym

Transforming your spare room into a home gym is a great way to utilize your space and level up your workout routine.

A home gym can be a place to keep all of your workout machines like treadmills, ellipticals, and more. It’s also a great way to both store and use wrestling mats.

Final Thoughts

Not having enough space can make you feel suffocated in your own home. Your house is supposed to be a place where functionality and comfort work together to create a space that you actually want to be in.

Fortunately, moving into a house with more rooms isn’t the only way to solve this problem. Each of these suggestions can provide you with excellent ideas on how to add spare rooms to your home for cheap, so you can level up your living space without hurting your wallet.

The post How to Add a Room to a House for Cheap: 10 Ideas appeared first on HomelyVille.

The most suitable color to paint a basement ceiling is white, black, or gray. A white ceiling lights up the space, creating an airy, open feel, while black makes the ceiling seem higher and hides flaws. On its part, gray offers a classic look and is a great substitute for either black or white. 

In this article, you’ll learn more about the best colors for your basement ceiling and what to consider when choosing your ideal color. You’ll also get valuable tips on how to paint your ceiling.

Picking the Right Color for Your Basement Ceiling

While white, black, and gray are regarded as the best colors to paint a basement ceiling, choosing the right color depends on various factors. These include how you plan to use the basement, what color you wish to paint the basement walls, and whether you’ll use the same color on the ceiling. 

For instance, to convert your basement into a working space, you’d need to consider your lighting source and how much light the ceiling would reflect. A photography studio would require lots of bright light and a ceiling that reflects light for your photos and videos.

Before you embark on the project, you also need to consider what effect you’re looking for. For instance, would you want to make your basement look bigger or for the ceiling to appear higher? In other words, what general feel do you want the color on your basement ceiling to convey?

Let’s expound a little more on some of these considerations:

Matching the Basement Ceiling to the Walls

While it’s a matter of personal choice whether to match the colors of the basement ceiling to the walls, doing so gives the room a cozier feel. Go for a light color if you’re keen on having an open look with more depth and a darker shade if you prefer a more intimate feel. This look is ideal for basements with low or flat ceilings.

See also: Should You Paint the Ceiling or the Walls First?

Different Colors on the Basement Ceiling and Walls

You can decide not to match the color on the basement walls to that of your ceiling. If this is your preference, choose a darker shade for the ceiling. This way, you’ll achieve striking contrast between the ceiling and the basement walls.

A darker ceiling also results in:

• A cozier and more intimate basement.
• A more dramatic look, especially if the walls are white.
• A more sophisticated look if the hue is a mere 2-3 shades darker than the walls.

A Ceiling With a Lighter Color Than the Basement Walls

Opt for a lighter color for the basement ceiling if you’d like to make your basement appear larger or roomier. A lighter basement ceiling also opens up a room with a low ceiling and gives it a low-contrast look. So, if you have a small-size basement, keep this in mind.

A Basement That Looks Bigger

If your basement is small, but you want it to appear more spacious, one way to achieve this is to use bright and light colors. These colors reflect light, allowing the space to look bigger than its actual size.

Select colors such as white, cream, blue, light yellow, and gray and apply the color scheme to the entire basement. This means going for light-colored flooring and decor.

Best Colors for Basement Ceilings

Once you have a good idea of the general vibe you want for your basement, you can proceed to choose the color that’ll bring this out best. Below are some of the most appropriate colors for basement ceilings:

White

White is a popular choice for basement ceilings. It makes the entire space feel warm and bright in a casual, trendy way. A white ceiling is ideal for small basements as it lightens up the space, making it appear bigger. Painting your basement ceiling white also helps to boost the amount of light reflected in the room, making it ideal for a basement that lacks natural light.

A white ceiling is calming, providing a welcome relief after a stressful day. Unfortunately, white paint requires you to use more coats of paint and a special primer to prevent the color from turning yellow with time. Furthermore, if the ceiling contains many flaws that need covering up, white paint might not be ideal as it doesn’t do an outstanding job.

Black

While a black-colored basement ceiling might not appeal to every homeowner, it lends your space a clean and modern look. This is particularly so when paired with gray floors and furnishings. Besides, it does a pretty good job of disguising flaws as well as the plumbing and electric ducts in an exposed ceiling.

And since dark paint hides a lot of ills, a black ceiling is perfect for a basement in an older home as it blends in well, giving it a sleek appearance. Black ceilings also make the other colors in the room stand out, such as bright furniture or decor, giving the basement a comfortable look and feel. The ceiling also appears much higher.

Another option is to paint the trim black, making the lighter-colored ceiling more defined. If the walls and floors are also light, the dark trim will appear to float in space, resulting in a higher-looking ceiling and a more inviting retreat. 

The downside of using black paint is that it makes dust and cobwebs more visible.

Gray

Gray is both soothing and relaxing. It gives your basement a timeless, classic look and provides an excellent compromise if you’re torn between black and white. And since gray is much lighter than black, it suits darker basements better. Besides, unlike white, you won’t have to paint multiple layers since gray covers better.

This means that with gray paint, you can reduce the cost and time spent painting your basement ceiling. The color gray also allows you to hide minor defects without reducing light. And the best part? Gray offers more color options; hence you can get various shades of gray paint to liven up a dark or drab basement.

A Mix of Colors

A slight departure from the norm is choosing to go with a mix of colors to create a unique basement ceiling. Select warm brown accents, oranges, and reds and layer them over each other for a beautiful marbling effect. This ceiling pulls together all the other colors scattered throughout the space. For more vibrant energy, try contrasting accents.

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What Color to Paint an Exposed Basement Ceiling

Homeowners looking to create a classic industrial look often go for the exposed basement ceiling instead of the traditional drywall and drop ceilings. This trendy, loft-like style retains structural designs such as trusses, beams, and ductwork in their natural state.

If your basement is dark, having an exposed ceiling helps to brighten it up. It also makes the room feel extra spacious as the vertical lines on the floor joists make the ceiling appear higher.

The exposed ceiling design gives your basement a relaxed, cozy vibe. This type of ceiling looks great painted white, black, or dark grey. Some homeowners typically paint the pipes and ductwork, leaving the wires exposed. Painting everything allows the ducts and wires to become less visible.

A white ceiling is more noticeable on an exposed basement ceiling. It makes the space appear bigger, while black makes the room feel cozier since it enables the furnishings to stand out starkly against the darker ceiling.

Handy Tips on Painting Your Basement Ceiling

To paint your basement ceiling, you can either use a brush, roller, spray gun, or paint by hand. A spray gun offers the easiest and quickest method. It also delivers a smoother, even finish, plus you could cover the entire ceiling with only one coat of paint.

However, using a spray gun can be considerably messy. Therefore, you want to ensure you wear protective clothing and cover any areas you don’t want to be painted.

If you’re painting an exposed basement ceiling, consult your local codes to confirm whether painting the ductwork, pipes, and wires is acceptable.

The below tips will come in handy if you decide to paint your basement ceiling:

• Get yourself protective clothing.
• Opt for white paint to brighten a dark basement.
• Black paint requires less paint but offers better coverage.
• Use an airless paint sprayer for an even coverage and minimal waste.
• Prime all the surfaces before painting to ensure the paint sticks.
• Avoid using spray paint — it’s not safe, plus you’d need to use numerous cans.
• Go for low odor, extra spatter resistance, 2-in-1 primer, and paint.
• For an exposed basement ceiling, go for latex, sprayable paint because it’s ideal for various surfaces, including rafters and metal pipes.

If you aren’t good at DIY projects, consider hiring a professional painter. They can assist with choosing the most appropriate color, apply the correct paint and primer, ensure a mess-free job and a smoother application.

Final Thoughts

There are no hard and fast rules when deciding what color to paint your basement ceiling, irrespective of whether it’s covered or uncovered. Sky blues and yellows can work too! Go with what inspires you, but ensure to consider the use of the room and the design aesthetic you hope to create.

With the right color and following the helpful suggestions in this article, you can turn a dark and dull basement into a warm, inviting, and homey living space.

Related: Best Insulation for Basement Ceilings

The post What Color Should You Paint Your Basement Ceiling? appeared first on HomelyVille.

According to US regulations, no single point measured along the floor line of the room walls should be more than 6 ft away from an electrical outlet. This means that a standard, 12 x 14 ft room needs at least 4 to 6 electrical outlets, depending on the wall space.

Things can get a little complicated when it comes to electrical installations, especially when our real-life needs and government codes and requirements clash. In this article, I will try to clear (most of) the confusion behind this issue.

Ideal Number of Electrical Outlets per Room

Before diving deeper into our topic of the day, we should clear out what a wall space is:

Any space wider than 2 ft and unbroken along the floor line by doorways, fireplaces, and fixed cabinets (that don’t have a work surface) is considered a wall space.

Therefore, kitchens, dining rooms, family and living rooms, parlors, recreation rooms, sunrooms, bedrooms, libraries, and similar rooms or dwelling unit areas need at least one electrical outlet on every 6 ft of wall space.

This definition, however, still doesn’t clearly determine how many electrical outlets there should be per room. We can answer that question with a few examples as the specifics of each building are unique:

You should remember that the numbers shown in the table above are the minimum government requirements rather than what you might need for your home. That number is individual and highly depends on your household’s needs.

Number of Electrical Outlets in a Kitchen

Following the code, we can see that a mid-sized kitchen needs 6 to 10 electrical outlets. You should note that countertop outlets aren’t considered receptacle outlets, and therefore aren’t counted toward the required number.

You also need to consider your household needs. Apartments and smaller homes might get away with the minimum required electrical outlets for their kitchens. On the other hand, larger families may need to use a wider variety of appliances, and therefore, might even go above the maximum shown in the table.

Number of Electrical Outlets in a Living Room

Living rooms are far less tricky than kitchens, at least when it comes to electrical outlet calculations. All you need to do is calculate the wall space (doorways, fireplaces, and countertops with no work surface excluded) and place an outlet every 6ft.

However, this will, most likely, force you to resort to using extension cords later, which is far from ideal. For this reason, you need to take into account the number of devices that there’ll be in the living room (stereos, TVs, etc.) and install outlets based on their placement. It’s a good idea to add a few extra outlets to account for future needs.

Number of Electrical Outlets in a Bedroom

As wasteful and counterproductive as it might seem, bedroom receptacle placement needs to follow the same pattern as the rest of your home. It might seem like having an unnecessary outlet on a sidewall of your room is beyond redundant, but you must follow the rules.

Although it might be more convenient to place a couple of electrical outlets next to your bed and call it a day, your home inspector will most definitely disagree.

Number of Electrical Outlets in a Bathroom

While you might think that four electrical outlets are too many for a bathroom, the government regulators disagree. The same rules apply to bathrooms as other rooms; there needs to be an outlet for every 6 ft of wall space.

I suggest sticking to the government-prescribed minimum for this part of your home, as there simply isn’t a need for more than that in the bathroom.

Related: What Is the Standard Height for Light Switches and Outlet Boxes?

How Many Electrical Outlets Per Room Is Too Many?

When considering electrical rewiring, one element of electrical outlet planning installation is commonly thought about too late. The number of receptacles you can install in a room depends highly on the type of breaker they are connecting to.

Most homes have a combination of 15 and 20 Amp breakers. While usable, the 15 Amp variety is much less common than the 20 Amp version.

Having over ten outlets per room might be too many, especially if all of those outlets connect to the same breaker. Some rooms, such as the kitchen, might benefit from more outlets, but this brings out the question of whether the circuit breaker can handle the electrical load that these outlets bring.

How Many Electrical Outlets Can a 20 Amp Breaker Handle?

While adhering to local and federal regulations is mandatory, keeping your home safe should be your primary concern when dealing with electricity. For this reason and more, everyone dealing with installing new outlets should ensure that their home’s circuit doesn’t get overloaded by having too many outlets connected to the same breaker.

A standard 20 Amp breaker can handle up to 10 electrical outlets, experts say. With a maximum suggested load of 80%, up to 10 devices can be connected at the same time, depending on their electricity usage.

If their total electricity usage exceeds 1,920 watts, you’re risking overloading the circuit.

Warning Signs of an Overloaded Electrical Circuit

Electrical glitches are responsible for around 47,700 home fires in the US every year. Estimates show that one of the major factors in those glitches is overloaded circuits, commonly caused by plugging too many devices into a single outlet.

Why is that a problem? Because you’re trying to draw more current from the circuit than it can handle, causing it to overheat and potentially cause a fire.

Recognizing the signs of an overloaded circuit is something that every homeowner and tenant should be familiar with. Here is a short list of some of the most common overloaded electrical circuit signs:

1. Issues with lighting (flickering, dimming)
2. Strange sounds are coming from electrical outlets
3. Issues with fuses
4. Devices that require electricity to run seem to lack power
5. Experiencing a light electrical shock when touching switches and electrical appliances

Fortunately, you can avoid this issue by following one simple tip: don’t use extension cords for major appliances such as stoves, fridges, freezers, etc., and plug them straight into the wall outlet. If you don’t have enough outlets, refer to the start of this article to determine how many receptacles you should have in your home.

Final Thoughts

As someone who has recently finished a major home renovation process, I can sympathize with those of you who are just starting one.

From this experience, there’s one suggestion I can make with absolute confidence: Even though the government regulations clearly state the number of electrical outlets each room should have, it might be best to leave the final decision to professionals.

A professional electrician is familiar with the code and knows where and how electrical outlet spacing needs to be planned. Having receptacles conveniently positioned and not having to trip over extension cords is a luxury we commonly disregard.

You may also like: Painting Electrical Outlets (Everything You Should Know)

The post How Many Electrical Outlets Per Room (Outlet Spacing) appeared first on HomelyVille.

Underfloor insulation options include fiberglass batt, foam board, spray foam, and vapor barrier. Spray foam insulation is typically the costliest form of underfloor insulation, with the price per square foot reaching $2.50. Fiberglass and foam board insulation costs can reach $1 per square foot.

Determining what works best for you, including the costs, is as essential as correct installation. This article will provide all the details you need.

Consider Your Local Building Codes

You are responsible for your home being up to local building codes. For instance, if you add insulation to your concrete floor, this will necessarily raise the floor level.

Where ceiling height is regulated, this could put you at risk of violating those regulations. Get your questions answered before you get started.

Your best bet will be to get this information from a contractor, and it’s probably an even better idea to hire that contractor to do the insulation for you unless you are a seasoned DIY-er. Incorrect installation can eventually wreak real damage on your home at worst; at best, you won’t see any benefits from the insulation.

Underfloor Insulation R-Value

A word before we get into the options: You will also want to consider the R-value of the insulation you choose.

“R” stands for “resistance,” so R-value is the measure of how resistant a piece of insulation is to conductive heat flow. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation is at, well, insulating.

The United States Department of Energy provides a map of zones to help determine the minimum R-value recommended for your climate. The site also provides a corresponding chart to help determine the best insulation choices for your home.

Top Underfloor Insulation Options and Costs

Everyone knows there’s insulation in the walls and the attic, right? People rarely think of the floor, and if you’ve got a crawl space or some similar construction, the chances are good that you’re losing a lot of energy to that space beneath your house.

This is where the need for underfloor insulation comes in.

Here are the top four main insulation options:

• Fiberglass batt
• Foamboard
• Spray foam
• Vapor barrier

There are other kinds of insulation, but for our purposes here, dealing with underfloor concerns, these are our most common choices.

Each has its advantages, and very often, the specifics of your project may determine which you use, so you may not even have to decide on your own. A person can dream, right?

1. Fiberglass Batt

This is the insulation we see rolled out between joists in the attic floor and between the studs of exterior walls.

It is almost always fiberglass, which is excellent for insulating, but the filaments can be murder on the installers.

The batts are also available in cellulose, natural fibers, and plastic, but fiberglass is by far the most common type.

Try this Owens Corning’s R-13 Faced Insulation Roll, available through Amazon. Perfectly sized for 2×4 walls, one roll can cover around 40 square feet.

The R-value of batt insulation usually averages around 3.25 per inch of batting. As with any R-valued insulation, using multiple layers increases the value. Depending on many variables, expect to pay between $.30 and $1.00 per square foot of batt insulation.

2. Foam Board

Often having a polyurethane core, foam board is usually sold in 4’ x 8’ sheets and offers a lightweight, easily shapeable (via trimming) insulation.

This type of insulation has an added perk in that the exterior often acts as a moisture barrier. Building codes almost always require foam board to be covered by sheetrock, so this may not be best for crawl space applications.

The main draw to foam board is that it has a higher R-value in relation to its thickness than batting. Its R-value is usually just under 4 per inch of insulation.

It usually comes in inch-thick sheets and runs between $.30 and $.95 per square foot, but that price range does not include labor for installation, which can add almost $5 per square foot to the cost.

3. Spray Foam

Perhaps best used for hard-to-reach or oddly shaped areas, spray foam gets sprayed into the space, then expands to fill all the nooks and crannies.

It is available either in open- or closed-cell varieties. Closed-cell foam is denser, has a higher R-value, and is more expensive.

Spray foam, in general, costs more than other types of insulation per square foot and the R-value ranges from a little under 4 to about 6.5 per inch of thickness.

Consumers can buy spray foam in a 12-oz can, such as Loctite’s Tite Foam. It is flexible yet durable with strong bonding abilities to everything from wood to metal to PVC.

But this is typically for gaps here and there. For a whole floor, you’d need a much larger source of foam, and this may require a contractor’s assistance.

Spray foam can run as much as $2.50 per square foot. Still, as with other costs mentioned in this article, these are averages and will be affected positively and negatively by many, many variables specific to your project.

Do not base your project’s budget on these figures alone.

4. Vapor Barrier

The vapor barrier isn’t so much a kind of insulation as it is a necessary part of the insulation process, especially when you’re dealing with underfloor insulation.

It will stop water vapor from entering your walls, ceilings, and floors. Moisture, as always, can cause mold and mildew, but it can also lower the R-value of the insulation in the walls.

Vapor barriers do not have R-values.

Read also: The Best Flooring for Insulation and Energy Efficiency

Tips to Keep in Mind About Insulating Specific Floors

Different underfloors present unique challenges when it comes to insulation.

Crawl Spaces

Insulating this type of floor is probably the easiest of all, provided you can access the crawl space (there are homes whose crawl spaces inexplicably do not have access hatches).

More than likely, when you get under the house and lie on your back and look up, you’re going to be looking at the bottom of your home’s floor. If there is not a vapor barrier installed, you’ll probably want to install one before proceeding.

In the case of a crawl space, fiberglass batt insulation is probably your easiest and best bet for the project. You’ll be able to staple the batting in place and instantly add to your home’s ability to retain heat.

This will be logistically more difficult than rolling it out on your attic floor was, but an extra pair of hands can help hold things in place while you staple or otherwise fasten the batting in place.

Another option here is using foam board instead of the batts. It easily cuts to fit with a utility knife, though there exists a higher possibility of gaps that will negate some of the benefits of insulating the floor.

No matter which you choose, resist the temptation to close up all the ventilation ducts. Crawl spaces must have some ventilation. Without it, moisture will build up down there, causing mold, mildew, and rot that can cause catastrophic damage to your property.

Floating Timber Floors

Often a Victorian house feature, the floating timber floor will look like the floor above a crawl space.

The problem, if there is one, can come in that without a crawl space, you have no ease of access. Your choices then get more daunting than getting under the house with a hired neighborhood kid whose job it is to hold the batt in place.

You may face the task of pulling up your floor to lay the batt down. This may be prohibitively expensive, or it may be too big a task for you to take on by yourself, with or without the hired neighborhood kid.

Spray foam is another option here. Since many insulation companies offer injection foam as an option for your pre-existing walls, so you don’t have to rip up the drywall, the same principle works here.

You may be able to inject the foam into small holes in the floor and fill the voids between the floor joists.

Concrete Floors

There are two approaches here, one for before the concrete is poured and one after. A vapor barrier, followed by foam board, can be laid down before the concrete goes in, and this will sufficiently insulate the floor that the concrete will either become or support.

If the concrete has already been poured, you will need to decide if ceiling height is a concern.

If it isn’t– meaning if you have plenty of headroom to deal with– you might consider building a subfloor, insulating as you would a floating timber or crawl space floor, then putting flooring down on top of that now-insulated subfloor.

If you don’t have the clearance to add a couple of inches to the height of the floor, you’ll want to use a modified version of foam board specifically for this type of job.

They combine a vapor barrier, insulation, and a subfloor-like backing that will face up and be ready for you to lay flooring on top of it.

Either way, insulating your concrete floor is as vital to your home’s efficiency as doing the same to your crawl space floor.

Conclusion

Insulating your floor is an often overlooked task that, when left undone, can cost you money each and every month. Taking the time and budgeting for the project will increase your home’s efficiency and save you money in the long run.

Properly installed vapor barriers can stave off decay and damage to your home caused by moisture. Correctly installed insulation will make your home more comfortable and leave you with one less thing to worry about when it comes to your homeownership odyssey.

You may also like: Are Squeaky Floors a Structural Problem?

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