If you find that the drywall tape is separating from your ceiling, it is most likely caused by one of three problems. The most common reason is that a lack of mud was used during the initial application. The other two possibilities are excessive moisture or a shift in the foundation of the home.

This article will briefly go over how to apply drywall tape for the best adherence possible. We will also discuss the three main causes of drywall tape separation and what may be done to prevent or rectify them. Lastly, we will recommend the best quality mud and drywall tape so that you will not have to worry about separation in the future, so keep reading.

Causes of Drywall Tape Separation

There are three main reasons why the drywall tape has begun to separate from your ceiling.

Poor Adhesion

The most likely reason is that the drywall tape has poor adhesion and can no longer stick down. This is due to a failure to apply it properly.

Whoever performed the taping job initially may not have applied enough mud to stick the tape down stably or may have used a poor product.

If this is the case, the tape will need to be removed, and the job will need to be redone according to the steps explained in the bottom section, ‘How To Apply the New Drywall Tape.’

Moisture

Another potential cause of drywall tape separating from a ceiling is moisture/humidity.

This is especially common in bathrooms because of the presence of steam and moisture.

Steam from a hot shower will rise and congregate around the ceiling, and over time this may begin to compromise the tape’s seal.

A leak from a pipe or vent in the ceiling may also cause the tape to separate.

Redo the tape job and improve the room’s ventilation to prevent a future recurrence.

Ceiling Shift

The third reason drywall tape may come to separate from the ceiling is due to a shift in the ceiling itself.

Over time, and as a house settles, its frame may shift slightly.

This is relatively common and not usually a cause for concern and may be so subtle that you do not even notice it has happened, but because drywall is installed so tightly and flush, it can become affected.

If this is the case, it may be further indicated by drywall separation where the ceiling meets the wall.

If the shift has been so excessive as to cause the drywall itself to warp, the whole job may need to be redone. If only the tape has been affected, it will suffice to simply replace the tape itself.

How To Apply the New Drywall Tape

Unfortunately, there isn’t a quick fix for drywall tape that is separating from the ceiling. You can try to repair it, but the solution won’t be permanent.

The best thing you can do is replace the tape with a new one.  Luckily, the whole process is quick and easy and it will go smoothly as long as you follow the instructions.

The items you will need to perform a drywall taping job are:

• Drywall mud/joint compound
• A drywall taping knife
• Drywall tape

If you are taping a drywall ceiling, you will also require a stable stool or bench to stand on as well.

Follow these steps for the best drywall taping results:

1. The first step is to remove the old drywall tape. The easiest way to do that is with a razor knife. You should cut it close to the edges in order to loosen the adhesive, which would allow you to safely remove the tape.
2. Your next task is to clean that part of the ceiling with a cloth. That way, you will ensure that your new drywall tape sticks to the surface easily.
3. Once you have prepared your drywall mud as per the instruction on the label, begin spreading it along the entirety of the butt-joint with your drywall taping knife. From there, using the knife, scrape along the mud to smooth it out.
4. Next, with your knife, poke a little hole into the gap that the mud has now filled, at both ends of the drywall sheet, to create a visual reference point. Use this point of reference to apply your drywall tape directly along the seam in a nice straight line.
5. Once you have applied your tape, use your knife to flatten and smooth it out. Press firmly, but not so hard as to squeeze all of the mud out from underneath. For the tape to stick, it requires some mud to remain.
6. Then, you can sand the surface in order to eliminate any marks and spots. You can use a 200 or 220-grit sandpaper and a sanding block.
7. Now, you can prime the surface if you want. A primer will ensure that the paint is long-lasting and more even, but this step is not necessary.
8. The last thing to do is to paint your ceiling in order to match the rest of the surface.

Drywalling is a skill that requires not only knowledge but a certain sense of touch and feel. As such, it takes a long time to get the hang of it, and for those who are new or inexperienced, it may seem intimidating.

The most important thing when drywalling is that once you are finished, everything should look flush, squared, the seams should be hidden, and the whole wall should appear perfectly uniform.

Where To Purchase Drywall Taping Materials

Quality tape and mud will make all the difference, so always be sure to invest wisely and never cheap out and buy second-rate drywalling products.

If you are looking for a reliable joint compound, purchase a container of U S Gypsum ready-to-use compound at an incredibly low price.

For drywall tape, we recommend Duck Brand paper drywall joint tape. This product is designed for longevity and, as such, is sure to get the job done.

Final Conclusion

In this article, we sought to determine what may cause drywall tape to separate from a ceiling.

We concluded that there are three main reasons why this can happen:

• The drywall tape was not applied properly due to poor products or lack of skill
• Moisture from a shower or elsewhere caused the mud to lose its adhesiveness
• The frame of the home has shifted while settling and caused the tape to lift

Always ensure that you have done a good job when applying drywall tape, and never skip steps or cut corners.

The post Why Is Drywall Tape Separating From the Ceiling and How to Fix It appeared first on HomelyVille.

Different types of drywall tape include paper drywall tape, fiberglass mesh tape, vinyl-paper composite tape, and metal drywall tape. While they are all ideal for covering your drywalls, each is best suited to specific cases and comes with its advantages and disadvantages.

In this article, you will find out why drywall tape is popular for wall and joints repairs. You will also find detailed information on the various types of drywall tape, their pros and cons. Finally, we will provide helpful tips on the best option to go for. Let’s get started.

Why Drywall Tape Is Popular for Joint and Wall Repairs

If you were to embed a joint compound alone into the seam between two sheets, the sheets would become loose over time. They would then start moving and developing tiny cracks within the joints. Eventually, the joints would begin to crumble. And this is where drywall tape comes in. 

You see, drywall tape reinforces joints, thus allows the joint compound to work effectively. By forming a physical bond between the two adjacent sheets, it minimizes their movement and resultant cracking. It also makes the seams invisible. Bear in mind that if you only use joint compound to fill in the seams, they will become visible again once the compound dries out. Besides, unlike joint compound, drywall tape doesn’t shrink.

Different Kinds of Drywall Tape

There are 5 types of tape that you can use for drywall installation. They include:

Paper Drywall Tape

Many drywall finishers like paper drywall tape because it is extremely durable, easy to install, and resists tearing. It also sports a slightly rough surface that allows it to adhere to the drywall joint compound or mud holding it in place. In addition, it contains a seam at the center that makes it much easier to fold long tape for use in corners.

Paper drywall tape consists of long paper strips rolled into about 75 feet (22.9 m) rolls. The tape comes with a lengthwise factory-made center crease, which allows you to fold it in two and makes it easier to use inside and outside corners. Using paper tape requires a bit of skill; you need to embed it in a layer of the joint compound since it is non adhesive. This helps it stick to the drywall. But first, you will need to prepare the wall with a strip of drywall mud. 

After embedding it in mud, paper tape firms up and becomes quite strong. This makes it particularly fitting for butt joints, which tend to be weak in drywall installations.

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Paper tape works well with both drying and setting-type compound. However, you want to be careful about covering the entire surface with compound, then squeezing it out evenly to prevent air bubbles from forming underneath the tape.

Pros

• It’s strong.
• It’s affordable.
• It’s versatile.
• It’s widely available.
• It resembles drywall.
• It’s best for use in joints and corners.

Cons

• It’s challenging to use.
• It doesn’t stick very well.
• It could bubble and bulge if incorrectly applied.
• It’s prone to punctures and wrinkles easily.

Metal Drywall Tape

Metal-reinforced paper drywall tape is a niche product specially designed for inside corners. It’s also very ideal for covering wide-angled outer joints. Metal drywall tape comprises two metal strips glued to a paper drywall tape. It comes with a crease, so it’s easy to fold lengthwise. This drywall joint tape makes it very easy to cover corners, making them extremely strong. 

Pros

• It’s strong.
• It’s easy to install.
• It works well on corners.
• It’s excellent for wide-angle joints.
• It’s more affordable than newer drywall tape options.

Cons

• It requires tin snips.
• It’s not easy to hide with a drywall compound.
• It’s not suitable for outside corners or flat surfaces.

Fiberglass Mesh Drywall Tape

Fiberglass threads laced into a tape-like formation make mesh drywall tape incredibly strong. Much thicker than paper joint tape, mesh drywall tape sports a tacky backing, which allows it to self-adhere to the wall. And since it doesn’t require embedding into the compound, it speeds up the taping process while ensuring the tape lies flat.

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Fiberglass mesh tape reinforces the drywall joint compound well, but its bond is not as cohesive as the paper tape one. Its shelf-life is also much shorter. Still, it resists mold better than paper tape, making it an ideal choice for bathrooms and other surfaces that get in touch with water. To prolong the shelf life, store your fiberglass mesh drywall tape in a sealed plastic bag.

Pros

• It’s easy to use.
• It’s self-adhering.
• It’s air bubble resistant.
• It resists moisture well.
• It’s effective for repairing joints and holes.
• It lends itself well to oddly-shaped surfaces.

Cons

• It shreds easily.
• It might leave a bulge.
• It’s challenging to handle.
• It leaves behind a sticky residue.
• Its criss cross texture requires substantial joint compound amounts to cover it.

The below video explains the differences between mesh drywall tape and paper drywall tape:

Ultra-Thin Fiberglass Drywall Tape

Ultra-thin fiberglass drywall tape is a fine mesh quite similar to fabric. It’s a lot thinner and much easier to handle than regular fiberglass mesh drywall tape. Besides, the tape consists of more threads with more intersection points between them, making it way more robust than the mesh drywall tape.

Pros

• It’s self-adhering.
• It’s perfect for single-spot repairs.

Cons

• It’s pricey.
• It’s not ideal for corners.

Vinyl-Paper Composite Tape

Vinyl-paper composite tape makes it considerably easier to finish difficult angles. There’s no more need to draw a chalk line across tough angles or crooked corners since it forms perfectly straight lines, leaving all tough angles clean. However, because the tape is stiff, any changes in temperature or moisture levels could cause it to crack, thus separate from the joint compound.

Pros

• It’s ideal for crooked corners or tricky angles.
• It leaves corners looking sharply clean.

Cons

• It is incredibly pricey.
• The tapes tend to dislodge with time.

Which Type of Drywall Tape Is the Best?

Most professional drywall workers prefer to use paper tape in all their applications. This is because when they combine it with drywall compound, it provides a remarkably fitting joint. Besides, mesh tape is not typically used with regular joint compound but with a setting compound. This dries firmer, provides additional strength, and tends to be more resistant to cracks.

Nevertheless, several factors determine which drywall tape is ideal for you to use:

• If you are working on a tapered seam rather than a flat seam, it’s best to use the thicker fiberglass mesh tape.
• If the seam is flat, both paper tape and thin fiberglass tape are ideal. Mesh joint tape, on the other hand, tends to stick out thus looks lumpy.
• For stress joints such as door and window corners, consider using fiberglass mesh tape.
• Paper tape and metal-reinforced paper tape are both ideal for use inside corners.

Drywall Tape Sizing

Thus far, we have spoken at length about the different types of drywall tapes and their intended uses, but we have yet to mention anything about the size or dimension of said tape and how to determine what you will need in this regard.

Drywall tape is available in various sizes, and it is always important you select the adequate size for the repair you will be making.

Drywall tapes are typically available in four sizes.

These sizes are based on the most commonly available widths of drywall tape and are as follows: small (1 ⅞ “), medium (2 – 2 ½”), large (6”), and extra-large (36”).

One of the most important, obvious, yet, all-too-often overlooked things to do is to measure the cracks and/or holes that need repairing before purchasing any drywall tape.

Often customers will unfairly express dissatisfaction toward a particular drywall tape because the roll was too small or too narrow. This is, in fact, not a poor reflection on the product itself but the buyer.

Never make the mistake of assuming drywall tape is a one size fits all type of thing, and never attempt to eyeball a job, assuming that precision is not a big deal. Take the time to measure and size everything with accuracy.

Drywall tape is always available in an incredibly wide range of sizes so that no crack is ever too big or too small to be repaired, provided that you have done your homework.

Related: How to Fix Issues With Drywall Tape After Painting

Joint Compound

Above, we touched on the fact that paper tape, the most common type of drywall tape, relies on using a joint compound to adhere to the wall properly. Without joint compound paper, drywall tape can not be applied.

Selecting a quality joint compound is equally as important as choosing a quality drywall tape.

For a reliable yet affordable joint compound, get this US Gypsum’s All-Purpose Joint Compound.

Final Thoughts

Cracked walls make your home’s interior appear rather unsightly. As such, drywall repairs should be a top priority when you are looking to spruce up your house. While the best drywall tape alternative depends on your particular application, the most important factors to consider are:

• The type of adhesion.
• Moisture resistance.
• Strength or flexibility level.

While paper drywall tape is stronger and more versatile than the other options, mesh tape offers better moisture resistance and a user-friendly learning curve. Ultimately, your choice depends on where you want to use the drywall tape, the type of installation, and personal preference. 

The post Types of Drywall Tape: Which One Should You Use? appeared first on HomelyVille.

To secure drywall without studs, you will need some drywall clips, screws, a screwdriver, and drywall. Make sure your drywall is appropriately sized to fit the area to be covered. Attach the clips to the drywall that is already in place. Attach the new drywall to the clips and secure it with screws.

Drywall that is secured with wall studs will always be more stable and is the way to go if possible, but alas, sometimes you have to do a work-around. This sounds easy enough, but if you want a more in-depth discussion on the process of securing drywall without studs and a breakdown of the individual steps, keep reading.

Drywall Clips

Drywall clips are handy little devices that you can use to connect sheets of drywall or, if needed, make false corners. They come in several different shapes and sizes. They even make melt-away clips that melt at a certain temperature in fires and acoustical clips with a rubber backing for soundproofing. You can find them at your local hardware store or online, and decide which ones are right for the job you are doing.

What if You Do Not Have Drywall Clips?

If you want to tackle the old-school job style, you can forgo the clips, attach a piece of wood with screws to the back of the existing drywall, and attach the new drywall to this same wood backing. It serves the same function and will accomplish the same result, if inelegantly.

Attach Drywall to Drywall Steps

If you cannot get all your drywall seams lined up with the studs, follow these steps and try to get the drywall sheets to fit as snugly together as possible. Otherwise, you will need to use drywall mud (joint compound) to fill in the gaps.

1. First, you want to make sure you have some drywall attached to studs (if there is none yet in place) so that you have a structurally sound starting point.
2. Next, you push a drywall clip onto the end of the hung drywall. The clip has a channel that fits the edge of the drywall snugly. Make sure it is seated properly by lightly tapping it down with a hammer. This is your anchor for the floating (without stud backing) drywall. You will use several clips, depending on the size of your job. Space them roughly 16 inches (41 cm) apart.
3. Screw-in the seated drywall clips. An electric screwdriver makes this step faster and easier. Seat the screws slightly below the surface of the drywall. When you apply the finishing compound, there will be no trace of them.
4. Slide the sheet of floating drywall into the clip channel, making sure the two sheets of drywall are abutting each other firmly.
5. Screw in the new sheet of drywall to the clips.

Patch a Hole

One of the most common reasons — perhaps THE most common reason — people need to put drywall in an area with no backing stud is when they are patching a hole in the wall. This is usually a relatively small area, and it involves a few extra steps, as you will need to cut out the area around the hole to get it nice and square. You will also need a drywall saw, which you can get at your local hardware store or online.

1. Use a tape measure to measure the hole you are repairing. You will want to measure a few extra inches around the hole on all four sides to give yourself plenty of extra room to work with. Too small of a hole makes the whole process unnecessarily difficult.
2. Get a drywall sheet and use a ruler or straight edge to measure the necessary dimensions of the patch you are cutting.
3. Cut the piece of drywall to the desired size. Always cut with a sharp blade on the front of the drywall. This avoids tearing the paper on the back. Cut just deep enough to break the surface, then gently snap the board over your knee to break it. Then carefully use your blade to cut the paper on the back. If you have imperfect edges, you can use a drywall rasp to smooth it out. This will be the patch.
4. Hold the square piece of drywall against the hole in the wall you are repairing. Use it as a template and draw a line around it with a pencil.
5. Use a drywall saw to cut out the measured square around the hole. Gently punch in the tip of the saw on one of the lines and do your best to cut along the lines. Be careful to avoid any pipes or wiring inside the wall. Drywall is fairly easy to cut.
6. After removing the drywall, you just cut from around the hole, get your patch, and put it into the space to make sure it fits properly. Use the rasp to smooth edges if necessary.
7. Insert your drywall clips by wedging them into place, then screwing them in about ¾” below the edge. If your hole is small (6” to 8” or 15 cm to 20 cm), you can get by with just two clips, either one on each side or above and below. If the hole is larger (up to 12” or 30 cm), you will probably want clips on all four sides. If the hole is larger than 12” (30 cm) you may want multiple clips, evenly spaced, on each side.
8. Press your patch into the recess, making sure it sits flush with the surrounding drywall.
9. Screw-in the patch to the clips about ¾” (1.9 cm) from the edge.

Finish the Drywall

Now that you have your hole securely patched, it is time to make it disappear into the wall around it. The finishing work is all about subtlety, and if done well, nobody will ever know there was once a hole in the wall. Follow these steps:

1. Use a taping knife to spread ⅛” of drywall joint compound on the patch and surrounding drywall. Be careful not to use too much, or it will not be smooth.
2. Tear off a piece of drywall tape and put it on top of the spread compound over one patch seams. Repeat this for the opposite seam.
3. Use your taping knife to gently scrape the tape to push out excess joint compound from under the tape. The idea is to get the tape flush with the drywall. It will take several passes over it to get it just right. Be careful not to pull the tape out of position. Here’s an article on how to fix issues with drywall tape.
4. Repeat steps #2 and #3 for the other two seams opposite each other. If you get a bubble under the tape, use the corner of the taping knife to gently lift the tape and push a bit more joint compound underneath it, then continue scraping until flush with the wall.
5. Allow it to dry overnight and, if necessary, you can scrape it to smooth it out and go back over it with another ultra-thin layer of compound to get it as seamless as possible.
6. Repeat step #5 if necessary, covering a wider area than the original patch.
7. Sand with a sanding sponge, paying particular attention to the edges where the compound meets the unworked drywall to get it completely smooth for painting.

Make a Drywall False Corner

When making false corners, you are going to need to get corner clips. You will also need at least one exposed stud. Then follow these steps:

1. After measuring on the stud where you want your 90° corner, align the corner clip at the edge of the stud. Screw-in the corner clips 16 inches (41 cm) apart, making sure the side of the clip with the tab spans the stud. The side of the clip with the channel in it is your 90° corner.
2. Place the drywall on the tabs and screw it down, making sure the screw heads are slightly below the surface.
3. Put the next sheet of drywall in the clip channel, making sure it is at exactly 90°.
4. Screw-in the rest of the screws through the clip channel to firmly connect the drywall.

Final Thoughts

There is always more than one way to skin a cat, and there are other ways to approach this drywall problem. For example, if it is a large area to cover, it might make the most sense to put in an extra stud or two to hang the drywall on. But if you are patching a hole or covering a relatively small area, you will do just fine with the plan laid out here.

As long as you follow all of the steps mentioned above, you’ll be able to keep your new drywall looking and feeling pristine. There’s no doubt that studs are an essential part of construction, but you can patch and secure a lot of drywall without any studs.

The post How to Secure Drywall Without Studs appeared first on HomelyVille.

For example, drywall absorbs paint differently than other materials, so the paint might come out patchy. Drywall primers have a special formula that will make a world of difference when it comes to applying a good, smooth layer of paint.

However, unless you’re an expert, finding the best primer for the job might seem like an impossible feat, but I’m here to help. In this article, I’ll tell you what features to look for in order to discern between the best and the worst primers. But if you’re looking for a quick recommendation, you can use any of the following products to cover drywall imperfections.

1. Rust-Oleum 2004 Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 White Water-Based Primer Sealer

Rust-Oleum offers a water-based primer that you can use for both exterior and interior application. This primer is quite durable and can cover up to 100 square feet of drywall per quart. Rust-Oleum 2004 Zinsser can prevent peeling, blistering, and mildew growth and is perfect for pH-high surfaces (such as fresh concrete).

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In addition to applying it on drywall, you can use Rust-Oleum on glass, tile, concrete, plaster, and metal surfaces. You can also get the product as an aerosol spray paint formula to get into all nooks and crannies.

You won’t even have to sand down most surfaces before applying the product. Also, once you finish applying Rust-Oleum 2004 Zinsser, you clean the surface using only water and soap.

What I enjoy most about Rust-Oleum’s primer is that it offers great coverage and lovely color and sheen. Also, it’s one of the few products that won’t turn yellow after a while.

The only thing to keep in mind with this primer is that it emits incredibly strong fumes. So you should only use it in a well-ventilated room and preferably with a mask.

2. The Rust-Oleum Corporation 01501 Drywall Primer

Even though The Rust-Oleum Corporation 01501 is great for most drywall applications, it’s perfect for smooth walls. Moreover, in addition to priming your wall, it will also seal the tape joints and make sanding much easier. Even though this primer likely won’t cover any extremely large imperfections, it will be ideal for smoothing down the smaller ones.

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This high build primer is quite fast-drying and won’t take more than an hour to create a permanent seal. Moreover, Rust-Oleum Corporation 01501 is so quick-drying that it allows you to prime and paint your drywall within the same day.

The Rust-Oleum Corporation 01501 will make your paint job look incredibly smooth and as if it’s been professionally laid down. However, this primer is known to be a bit watery, so you might have to apply several layers.

3. The Dap 12374 Crack Shot Spackling Interior & Exterior Primer

The Dap 12374 Crack Shot Spackling is a thick knife grade primer paste that allows you to cover all imperfections — big and small. Because the texture of this high-build primer resembles mud, it’s often used for bare wall application. However, you can also use it to coat smooth walls when they don’t end up looking the way you wanted.

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One of the features I enjoy the most about this primer is how easy it is to use. When you purchase the product, you won’t even have to mix it or prep it — you’ll be able to start applying it straight away. Also, once you’ve applied The Dap over your drywall, you can sand it down and get an incredibly smooth finish.

The only downside to The Dap 12374 Crack Shot Spackling is that it will dry out on its own over time. So if you’re planning on keeping the product in its original package — don’t expect it to last. Still, you can slow the drying process by placing it inside of a zip-lock bag.

Overall, this incredibly practical primer can be used to cover drywall imperfections for anyone in need of a quick fix. However, you ought to consider investing in a different product if you want to get a smooth surface without having to sand it down.

4. KILZ 2 Multi-Surface Stain Blocking Interior & Exterior Latex Primer, Sealer

KILZ 2 Multi-Surface Stain Blocking Primer/Sealer is water-based and quite reliable when it comes to covering drywall imperfections. It’s thick and durable enough to prevent any stains and changes in color, on both interior and exterior surfaces. Also, this primer/sealer is reliable and quite adhesive.

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In addition to drywall, you can also use it on brick, painted metal, wood, paneling, and plaster. One gallon of KILZ 2 Multi-Surface Stain Blocking Primer/Sealer can cover anywhere from 300–400 feet with a one-gallon package. It can protect the target surface from different types of mold, and because it’s so sticky, you’ll need to use fewer coats when applying it.

You’ll need to mix it well beforehand and use a spray, roller, or brush to coat the drywall to apply this primer. Then, give it about one hour to dry off before recoating the surface.

However, keep in mind that you’ll need to smooth the primer/sealer out in no fewer than 30 seconds after applying it. If you don’t, the product could keep sticking back to the brush you’re using, which would make your job much harder.

How to Select the Right Primer for Drywall Repair

If you don’t think any of the products I’ve listed in this article will work for you or if you want to know more about primers in general, here’s your chance. In the following section, I’ll tell you what criteria you must keep an eye out for when looking for the best primer to cover drywall imperfections.

The Texture of the Primer

The texture of your primer will significantly impact how well you’re able to cover drywall imperfections. If you’re looking for an incredibly smooth finish, using a high-build primer is a must. These are thicker than other types and allow you to fill in any holes, bubbles, and caps that are messing up your wall. For these types of jobs, I recommend using either the Rust-Oleum Corporation 01501 or The Dap 12374 primer.

That being said, if you already love the texture and slight imperfections your wall comes with, you can use a standard drywall primer. That way, you won’t lose any of the small details on your wall. However, make sure you’re applying even layers of primer to avoid causing any blemishes or color changes.

The Type of Primer

By choosing the perfect type of primer to cover your drywall imperfections, you’ll be able to ensure that the result is a professional-looking paint job.

First of all, regular primers are only meant to bond with the drywall, so they probably won’t leave the smoothest finish behind. So if you’re dealing with some temperamental drywall that still has ridges and marks even after you’ve sanded it down, you’ll need a high-build primer.

On the other hand, you can use spackling paste if you need a quick and dirty product to prime the drywall. Even though this solution isn’t the most precise,  you’ll be able to change the texture of the surface quickly after applying the product.

Also, you ought to use a sealer if you don’t want to change the color of the plaster. A sealer will leave a clear layer of coat behind and prevent moisture from getting through the drywall.

Finally, you can go with a latex primer if you want to even out the porosity of the drywall. However, keep in mind that some deep imperfections likely won’t absorb the paint as well if you use a latex primer.

Pro Tip:

Primers come with a paint-by expiration date of sorts, which means they’ll only be able to bond with paint for a certain period. So you should always paint the drywall within no more than two days of using the primer. If you want to learn how long you need to wait between applying a primer and a layer of paint, you can check out this article.

Conclusion

Unless you’re planning to leave a wall completely bare and colorless, using a primer is a must. Moreover, it’s the only way of ensuring you get a good color match, as well as prevent mold growth on your walls.

That being said, you have to use drywall-specific primers when you’re trying to cover imperfections on drywall. These products are specifically made to ensure the best, most long-lasting results possible.

Hopefully, this article helps you find a drywall primer for your specific project. If not, at least you know what to look for in your search for the best primer to cover drywall imperfections.

The post Best Primers to Cover Drywall Imperfections appeared first on HomelyVille.

Thanks to a few bad experiences with painting crews I had some years ago, I decided to learn all I could about painting. One of my most horrifying painting crew stories specifically involved a crew that didn’t do the prep the way they should have.

Only a few months after they applied the paint, I noticed a tiny fissure in the finish. A couple of weeks later, it was an inch-wide crack. Before long, I ended up with a gaping hole in my wall that showed the drywall beneath!

If you want to avoid having similar stories, just keep reading. I’m going to tell you what you should do to prepare new drywall or even an existing painted wall for a paint job. However, before we can focus on the walls, you need to do some basic room prep.

Before You Start Prepping the Walls for Painting

All successful painting projects begin several steps before the paint comes into play. If you do the preliminary preparations right, the painting itself will go by without a hitch. So what are the first things you’ll need to do?

Actually, I wrote all about the beginning stages of the painting process in my article about preparing the room you’re working in. At this point, your main task is to empty the room as much as you can, clean it up, and cover it with a drop cloth or a plastic tarp. I explained all of this in the article I’ve linked to, but it boils down to:

• Moving the pieces of furniture that aren’t too big out of the room and taking off wall decor
• Pushing the chunkier furniture toward the middle of the room
• Removing outlet and switch covers, as well as the lighting fixtures, and taping them
• Vacuuming excess dust
• Covering your furniture island to protect it from paint and doing the same with the floor, then taping everything down
• Using painter’s tape on the baseboards, windows, and other trim
• Measuring the total surface of the walls so that you can order the appropriate amount of paint and other equipment

Obviously, depending on the state of your walls, these steps might look a bit different. The ones I’ve listed apply to rooms that are already fully decorated and lived-in. However, if you’re starting with bare drywall, this will be even easier — you can just cover everything you need to and get into wall prep. Of course, before you get to attack your walls, you should also have your painting supplies ready.

Assembling the Supplies

If you thought that you could just dive into this project with a roller and a can of paint, I hate to burst your bubble. Still, you need to be realistic. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of a project and realizing that you’d forgotten to get an item that’s crucial to the whole process.

As I’ve explained in my article on wall painting equipment, there are all sorts of things you’ll need while you paint. Other than your rollers, paint, drop cloth, and painter’s tape, you’ll also need to get some more surprising items, such as screwdrivers and pliers. Why, you ask?

Well, the hardware tools are obviously useful for taking off outlet and switch covers. However, the article I’ve pointed you to has explanations for why you’ll need many other items as well. For the wall prep itself, you’ll need:

• A measuring tape
• Spackle and a scraper
• Sandpaper or a sanding block
• Protective gear like a breathing mask (for the dust, although you might as well protect yourself from the paint fumes)
• A broom and a mop or a sponge and some dish soap
• A good primer
• Brushes, rollers, and a paint tray

So let’s see where all of these items will come into play.

How to Prepare Drywall for Painting

Throughout this guide, I’ll specify whether a technique can be used on finished walls or directly on drywall. If you have just installed new drywall, you will need to pay attention to the specific instructions I’ll include.

So without further ado, let’s just get into wall prep. Here are the things you’ll need to do if you want your paint to adhere properly.

Join Your Drywall Sheets If They’re New

The first thing you need to do is deal with the major repairs to the wall. If you have newly installed drywall, you obviously don’t have much to repair, do you? However, you can’t just leave the boards screwed into the studs without connecting them to each other. After all, we want to have a smooth transition all over the wall without dips between the individual pieces of drywall.

Typically, if you want to fill in the tiny gaps between sheets of drywall, you’ll need drywall joint compound. These types of products perform similarly to spackle — so if you already have spackle, you can just use that instead.

Using your trusty wall spatula or even a wide putty knife, you can transfer some of the drywall joint compound into a metal pan or a plate. Then you can take bits of the compound, roughly apply them over the joints, and then smooth everything out. After the compound has had time to set and cure, you’ll be able to deal with the texture imperfections.

Repair the Walls If Necessary

Now, even if the walls are already damaged, the solution will actually be fairly similar to working on drywall joints. So if you have cracks like the ones I did when the painters I hired did a shoddy job, you can rest easy. These things are actually easy to fix.

If you have any type of a crack in your wall, whether it’s a surface-level scratch or a deeper gap, you’ll want to get rid of the lifted sections of the wall. Most of the time, when you have small surface cracks like these, the situation is much worse beneath the surface. So you can use a clean scraper tool like this 5-in-1 one from Tooluxe to knock out any pieces of paint that have started to peel.

You don’t really need to apply any force when you’re doing this. Just keep the tool almost flush with the wall, dragging it under the crack and pushing until the piece peels off as much as it wants to. Keep in mind that we’re not trying to scrape off the paint that’s attached to the wall — just the parts that have already lifted.

Once you get rid of the lifted paint, you can use one of those wide knives or wall spatulas I’ve mentioned before to smooth spackle all over the area. When you fill everything out, make sure to smooth the spackle as much as possible. That will make it easier for you to get rid of the excess later on.

Fill Nail Holes

While you’re at it, you can also fix any wall cavities you might have made on purpose as well. That includes nail holes or even curtain rod craters if you no longer want the curtain rod to be there. For small holes, you can take some spackle on the tip of your finger and push it in. However, you might still have to use a wall spatula to fill in big holes.

Keep adding spackle until you have a tiny bump on the wall. Since spackle tends to shrink a bit as it cures, that will prevent any depressions in the wall. Also, you’ll be able to get rid of the excess easily. Speaking of which, let’s talk about how you can go about doing that.

Get Rid of Excess Spackle and Texture

At this point in your wall priming process, your wall may be dotted with spackle. Or, you might be even looking at bare drywall connected with joint compound. Now is when we get to set the stage for what will happen when we apply the paint.

We want to have our primer and the paint apply evenly across our walls, right? Most people have abandoned using stucco wall textures indoors, so we can safely say that you want a smooth application. Part of the answer to your problem lies in fine-grit sandpaper.

There are two options you can go for as far as sanding goes. On the one hand, you could use a fine-grit sanding block (or sponge) like this angled one from 3M. The angled side will help you get into the corners of the room without damaging the wall that connects to the one you’re sanding. As the product packaging will tell you, you can use this sanding block dry or wet — like this 320-grit soft sanding sponge.

Alternately, you could always improvise your sanding block by wrapping 220-grit sandpaper around a piece of wood. Still, regardless of how you get your sanding tool, you probably shouldn’t use it without preparing yourself.

You should always wear protective gear to avoid getting dust in your eyes and mouth. In my painting equipment article, I recommended a simple cloth face mask. However, you can also use something more professional, like a respirator. Just get the right size for your face.

In addition to the mask, you may need goggles or even a plastic suit to protect your clothing. But really, you should wear old clothing that you don’t mind damaging throughout this process anyway.

Wash Off the Dust

Whether you sand your walls or not, you will need to wash them a bit before you proceed. There are several reasons why you should do that and a few methods you might use.

The first reason is that you’re starting with bare drywall. By the time you install the drywall, apply the joint compound, and sand it — the walls will be pretty messy. If you were to touch the drywall, your fingers would probably come away with dust on them. With all of that dust on the panels, the paint won’t be able to adhere to the wall. So what do you do?

Well, the first thing you need to do is wipe off as much of the dust as you can. Since we don’t want to have to climb up a ladder or a chair for no reason, you can just use a regular floor broom to get most of the dust off first. Remember to keep your face mask on for this step! Once you get as much of the dust off as you can, get the remainder off with a flat floor mop.

This method can also be useful for getting excess dust off of regular painted walls you just sanded. However, rather than use a broom and a mop, I recommend a more targeted approach:

• Start with a bowl of warm water with a few drops of dish soap in it
• Dunk a sponge into the mix and wring it out
• Wipe the area you sanded before or do the whole wall

You can also use this method if your walls are just generally dirty or even if you have grease residue. All of this should allow the primer and the paint to adhere to the wall better.

Caulk the Edges

Once your walls are squeaky clean, you can make the last couple of changes before you apply your primer. Many people find that they have a few last flaws they want to correct. Some find tiny fissures in the wall while others spot gaps between the wooden baseboards or the trim and the wall. Well, there’s a simple solution for dealing with these issues: caulk.

Caulk is pretty much a magical ingredient that can close that tiny gap without an issue. You’ll just load it into a caulking gun and squeeze it out wherever you need it. Then you can use a wet finger or wear gloves as you smooth the product.

However, since we’re going to be applying pigment on top of this, you should keep in mind that you’ll need to get paintable caulk. Most of these types of products can be painted over, but you should watch out for the ones that can’t. Additionally, I should say that not all people apply caulk after washing their walls. For example, the Sherwin-Williams guy from this video uses a primer first, then caulk, and then paint.

Pick the Right Primer

As I’ve said time and again, there is a single primer rule you should stick to: use oil-based primer for oil-based paint and latex for everything else.

White primer is the most common kind. However, there are situations in which you don’t want to use white to prime your walls.

For one, if you’re aiming to get a dark color on light walls, you might want to use a gray primer. Alternately, you can pour some of your wall paint into a bucket of white primer to get a tinted base. Still, if you’re trying to paint over dark walls with a brighter shade, you’ll definitely need to apply a light primer.

Some primers and colors are certainly better than others in covering dark walls, as you’ll be able to see in my article about the best primer and paint for covering dark walls. In fact, some paints even claim to be self-priming — but that seems like a bit of a gimmick to me. You’d need to apply two coats of that type of paint, like any other, although I suppose getting to skip a step would be pretty convenient if the paint gives you even coverage.

Additionally, if you’re painting drywall for the first time, you need to get a special drywall primer to have an even base for the color to stick to. You can even use a cheap light color to even out the drywall color and disguise the joint compound.

Of course, many people skip primer altogether. In my opinion, that’s a huge mistake. Still, if you really don’t want to use primer, I suppose that’s your choice. But if your walls have signs of water damage or stains on them, you’ll definitely need a primer to ensure even coverage.

If the Situation Calls for It — Apply Two Coats

Most people think that it’s all about getting the right brushes and rollers for the job, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. There is a certain technique for getting even and total coverage out of your primer and paint.

If you want to have a successful painting project, you’ll want everything to be as smooth as possible. That begins with sanding and washing and ends with applying your primer smoothly and without streaking, whether you’re working with a brush or a roller. Of course, since you’ll likely be combining the two — using the brush in the corners and the roller for the middle of the wall — I’ve taken it upon myself to write guides on how to avoid streaks and linked them above.

Now Get Your Walls Ready for Paint

As I have stressed before, making sure that your walls are ready for paint is one of the most important steps in the painting process. Your goal should be to get the best results out of the paint you’ve chosen to apply. That includes getting everything set up before you go in with the color — from cleaning and covering the room to sanding, washing, and priming the walls.

Although I’ve tried to present this guide in an order that makes sense, the fact is that this is pretty much an intuitive process. Once you get started and gain some experience, you’ll find yourself skipping between all of the steps I’ve mentioned. So you might peel off lifted paint, then sand, wash, and spackle the area after it’s dry. Or you could figure out something completely new that works for you.

I, for one, am always looking to learn new things. Even now, when I’m fairly used to painting my own walls, I find myself scouring the Internet for new painting methods and new color trends. As soon as I find anything interesting, I’ll make sure to report my findings here. So don’t forget to check back in for more painting tips!

The post How to Prepare Your Walls for Painting (Prepping Drywall for Paint) appeared first on HomelyVille.

In case you’re in the process of redecorating your home and you want to repaint your drywall, I have a perfect article for you. It contains great tips for preparing drywall for painting.

Common Types of Drywall Tape

The 3 most common types of drywall tape include:

Paper Tape

As its name states, paper drywall tape consists of strips of paper. It comes with a crease in the paper which enables you to fold it down the middle. That’s especially helpful when you’re applying it on inside corners.

A great thing about paper tape is that you can find it almost everywhere. In addition, it’s cheap and looks like a drywall, so it won’t stand out.

However, a major downside to using paper tape is that it isn’t the easiest to work with, because it can’t be used on its own. You’ll need to apply a thinner layer of drywall mud before laying down the tape. Then, you’ll have to wait for a couple of hours for everything to dry out, and then apply another layer of mud.

What’s more, the process of applying paper tape often leads to the forming of air bubbles. So, there’s a huge chance that you’ll have to reapply the tape after a couple of years, or even months. It’s also easily ripped.

Fiberglass Mesh Drywall Tape

Most experts will tell you that Fiberglass mesh drywall tape is the best thing you can use for drywall. It’s made of fiberglass threads that make it strong and almost impossible to rip off. Furthermore, it will help you avoid issues with air bubbles.

Another great upside to fiberglass mesh drywall tape is that it works on its own. Thus, you won’t need mud or any other messy mixture for gluing it on the surface.

But, this tape has its disadvantages. It’s not the easiest to handle, and it leaves a sticky residue. Furthermore, it’s thicker than paper tape, which means that it can leave a bulge if you don’t apply it correctly.

Metal Reinforced Drywall Tape

Metal reinforced drywall tape is actually paper tape with a twist. In most cases, this type of drywall tape has two strips of thin metal throughout the tape. When you want to install the tape, you need to crease it lengthwise and then apply it to the surface. So, it’s easy to bend, which makes it great for corners, and it’s strong and durable.

On the other hand, metal-reinforced drywall tape isn’t the best choice for flat surfaces and outside corners. Thus, you can only use it for inside ones. In addition, the tape is expensive and you’ll probably have trouble making it blend with the wall.

How to Fix Drywall Tape Showing Through Paint

Why Can You See Drywall Tape After Painting?

Being able to see drywall tape even after the paint job is done means that something went wrong in the process of applying it. The most probable reason why that’s happening is that you haven’t used enough mud. So, the only thing you can do is repeat some steps of the process in order to make sure drywall tape stays hidden.

Even though many experts disagree on whether an already painted drywall tape should be repainted, it’s your only option. But don’t worry; if you follow my steps, you’ll be able to hide the tape without making things worse.

Skim Coating: The Best Way to Fix It

The technique you’ll be following is called skim coating. It’s actually common and painters use it to hide imperfections and achieve the desired drywall finish and smooth out the surface.

You’ll need:

• Compound
• Water (if the compound isn’t pre-mixed)
• Bowl
• Putty knife
• Primer
• Paint
• Sanding paper

Firstly, you’ll need to mix your compound with water or put a pre-mixed one in a bowl. Then, apply the compound to the tape with a putty knife. It’s best that you use a wider knife, a 6-inch one for example, if you have it.

Read the instructions to check how long you should wait, and then sand the area with 200-grit sandpaper after you make sure that the compound is completely dry.

The next step is applying a primer. You can even go with two layers if you’re not sure whether the tape will show again. After the primer dries out, you can start painting the surface. Two layers will be enough.

Repairing Bubbles in Drywall Tape After Painting

What Causes Bubbles in Drywall Tape?

If you notice air bubbles in drywall tape, that means that you, or whoever installed it, didn’t do a very good job. The first reason why bubbles form is that there are gaps between sheets of drywall. So, next time you apply the tape, make sure that sheets are as close as possible.

The second reason is the insufficient amount of compound under the tape. Thus, when you’re fixing the bubble, you’ll need to ensure that you put enough compound. However, you shouldn’t apply too much, because you’ll then have problems with bulges and uneven surface.

The good news is: eliminating bubbles from drywall tape isn’t hard. If everything goes smoothly, you’ll be able to fix your problem in just a couple of steps.

Removing the Bubble from Drywall Tape

If you see only one bubble on drywall tape, you’ll be happy to know that it won’t be long before your wall is spotless again. On the other hand, in case there are bubbles throughout drywall tape, you’ll probably have to remove that part of the tape and install a new one. The process is the same as removing the whole tape, the only difference is that you’ll be working with a smaller area.

For removing the bubble, you’ll need:

• Utility knife
• Putty knife
• Drywall compound or paste
• Water (if the compound isn’t pre-mixed)

You’ll begin the process of removing the bubble by cutting the center of the bubble horizontally with a utility knife. Then, you’ll need to do two vertical slits: across the top and the bottom of the bubble. If you do this step correctly, you should be able to fold out drywall tape easily.

The next step is applying the drywall compound or paste. In most cases, drywall compounds need to be mixed with water. So, you should make the compound ready for use. You’ll probably need one or two cups of the mixture for the whole process.

You should apply the compound or paste on the backside of the bubble with a putty knife. I recommend you to use the 2-inch one because it will be the easiest to work with in this situation.

Then, you should put drywall tape back and smooth it over with the putty knife. You can let everything dry out for a couple of hours. But, it’s best that you leave it during the night if you can.

You’ll need to repeat the whole process the next day. That way, you’ll make sure that the tape stays in place for a long time and that the bubble doesn’t reappear.

Related post: Why Is Drywall Tape Separating From a Ceiling?

Other Issues With Drywall Tape

Paper Tape Is Impossible to Hide on Butt Joints

If you’ve chosen to work with paper tape, and it’s annoyingly visible on butt joints, the best thing you can do is apply another layer of mud. But, you need to be careful with this step, because too much mud could create a bump that would be even more annoying.

You should use a wider knife, possibly a 10 or 12-inch one, to apply the mud. In case you still notice the tape, you can apply another layer.

Too Much Drywall Paper Sanding

It’s easy to go overboard with sanding, especially if you’re a beginner. Too much sanding can ruin the whole drywall installation, so it’s important that you do everything you can to avoid that.

The best way to ensure that your sanding is just right is to place a lamp or any kind of light at a low angle next to walls. As a result, every imperfection will be highlighted and you’ll know when to continue sanding and when it’s time to stop.

Dents in Drywall

Even a small dent in drywall can ruin the appearance of the whole wall. Luckily, there is an easy way to fix it without making too much mess.

You’ll need:

• Taping knife with a 4 to 6-inch flat blade
• Spackle paste or drywall joint compound
• Bowl
• Sanding block
• 200-grit sandpaper
• Primer
• Paint

You’ll begin the process by putting a drywall joint compound or spackle paste on the dent with a taping knife. You should make sure that everything is as smooth as possible and then give it 24 hours to fully dry out.

Then, you’ll need to sand the area with a sanding block and sandpaper. You can use your fingers instead of the block. But, I recommend you to buy this tool because it will provide a solid backing to the paper and give a better and smoother finish.

After letting everything dry for a couple of hours, you should examine the dented area in order to check whether there are holes or the compound shrunk. In case you see that the surface isn’t smooth enough, you should repeat the whole process.

When the surface looks and feels smooth, it’s time to prime. After priming and waiting for the primer to dry, you can paint the surface to match the rest of the wall or ceiling.

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